Georgia Natural Wonder #142 - Sope Creek. 1,179

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Georgia Natural Wonder #142 - Sope Creek

We are extending our Mountains to Classic South theme a few more post has we conclude our travels around Cobb County and the Civil War history among the pretty Natural features up here. For our 11th Georgia Natural Wonder, and our 14th Post on Cobb County, we explore Sope Creek. Sope Creek is an 11.6-mile-long stream located in Cobb County, Georgia, United States. It is a significant tributary of the Chattahoochee River. It was known as Soap Creek during the 19th century. A section of Sope Creek runs through the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area.


The Sope Creek Ruins are listed on the National Register of Historic Places.

Geography

Sope Creek starts within the city of Marietta proper, on the west side of Interstate 75, on the northeastern portion of State Route 120 Alternate (former northern half of State Route 120 Loop, now known as North Marietta Parkway. The creek begins as a spring, first evident emerging out of a culvert under Sessions Street, where it trickles southward and serves as the rear property line for the historic homes on lots facing Church Street (to the west), and Cherokee Street (to the east).


Sewell Mill Creek from someone's backyard.

The creek then travels in a culvert under the intersection of Cherokee Street and North Marietta Parkway, then under the parking lot of the Police Department/Cobb 911 Center at the southeast corner of the intersection. Thereafter, the creek travels east, parallel with SR 120 Alt., turning southeast around the same point as the road. It then separates from road, continuing southeast, as the road bends south. It crosses Roswell Road (the main Georgia 120), and travels in a sidewinder fashion to the east for the next 4 miles. Along the way, Sewell Mill Creek and Bishop Creek empty into Sope Creek.


Bishop Creek joins near East Cobb Park.

At this point, the creek turns south-southeast and crosses Lower Roswell Road.


It flows past the Falls At Sope Creek Apartments.


View from Apartment balcony.


Pretty but nothing spectacular until you get near Paper Mill Road.

It travels in this direction for the next 2 miles, crossing Paper Mill Road and Columns Drive, before emptying into the Chattahoochee River.



From beginning to end, Sope Creek falls nearly 300 feet over the course of approximately 12 miles. In the last two miles, Sope Creek cuts through the palisades that formed on both sides of the Chattahoochee, forming a small gorge based around the creek.



The most important feature of the creek is its name recognition. With one exception, Sope Creek is usually not treated as a major entity until the last two miles. The exception is an apartment complex close to the crossing of Roswell Road, near the 6-mile mark. Near the end of the creek, the name of Sope Creek has more appeal to the public, and therefore, it is seen in names, such as Sope Creek Elementary School, Sope Creek Nature Trails, and Sope Creek Homes.

The old covered bridge

Paper Mill Road crosses the creek about one mile upstream from the point where the Sope empties into the Chattahoochee. Paper Mill Road has to wind down the gorge in order to cross over the creek. At the crossing, circa 1960, lay one of Cobb County's two remaining covered bridges; the other crossed Nickajack Creek near Smyrna GNW #139.



The Sope Creek Bridge was a state-declared historic structure and only had a weight capacity of 2000 pounds (one U.S. ton).



In 1963, a grossly overweight truck crossed the bridge and damaged the support structure.



That summer, the structure was reinforced with steel shanks. On March 29, 1964, the covered bridge burned to the ground, leaving behind only the steel shanks and masonry. Arson was suspected, as the Concord Covered Bridge had been partially burned only a few weeks prior.


The Paper Mill Road bridge was reconstructed in 1970.

The entire structure was replaced with an improved, widened bridge with sidewalks in 2013.



False etymology

The origin of the creek's name is not documented. A false etymology has evolved. There are conflicting authorities supporting at least two versions:

Soap

The Atlanta Journal once said of the area, "Sope Creek, particularly in the springtime, is a place of unusual beauty. A quaint old covered bridge spans the stream just below where the log dam used to be. The stream is strewn with great boulders and the water dashes over these in a series of cascades, causing such masses of foam that they look like soapsuds."



There are also 19th century references to Soap Creek, which may simply be misspellings of Sope.

Old Sope

The National Park Service lends some authority to a separate version of the name's origin. In an older brochure, the Park Service stated that the creek is named for "... a Cherokee Indian called "Old Sope" who lived in the area perhaps even after the Removal." A more recent Park Service brochure has reduced that statement to "Named for a Cherokee holdout from the Trail of Tears ..." No further authority or evidence is cited. There are conflicting records indicating that "Old Sope" may have lived on a different stream in a different part of Georgia.


What 140 looks like.

The name isn't misspelled; there's just an old and new way of spelling it. There's an interesting history behind Soap (or Sope) Creek, a tributary of the Chattahoochee River that has lent its name to housing developments and buildings in east Cobb County, including an elementary school. It was originally called Soap Creek and was named after a Cherokee named Soap or "Old Soap," according to Jeff Bishop, president of the Georgia chapter of the Trail of Tears Association, which works with the Cherokee Nation, the Eastern Band of Cherokee Indians and the National Park Service to preserve Trail of Tears related sites in Georgia. Bishop wrote in an email that it was called Soap Creek on the 1832 Georgia Land Lottery maps. Old Soap was highly regarded by the whites in the area, according to "The First Hundred Years: A Short History of Cobb County," which states that "he had lived there so long that a creek and its branch were named for him." However, there was a dispute, and he and his family were forced to move to Cherokee County, where they lived until they were relocated on the Trail of Tears, wrote Bishop, who contributes to www.trailofthetrail.com. "There are descendants of Soap who now live in Oklahoma, in the Cherokee Nation," Bishop wrote in an email. "Chris Soap serves on the Cherokee Nation tribal council, and his father, Charley Soap, is a respected elder who is the widower of former Cherokee Nation Chief Wilma Mankiller."


There really is a Wilma Mankiller, she was the first female Chief of Cherokee Nation.

The spelling of Sope Creek apparently was changed sometime in the 19th century, but it was still spelled Soap in 1849's "Statistics of the State of Georgia." Historical markers use both Soap and Sope.

Sope Creek Ruins

Located at the intersection of Paper Mill Road and Sope Creek are old industrial ruins. These ruins are the remnants of a larger manufacturing complex which drew on the waterpower that the creek produced. During the period 1850 to 1940, a succession of enterprises, from a (fully integrated) paper mill, twine plant, flour mill and hydroelectric power plant occupied an area of about one mile along the creek.



The paper mill at Sope Creek was run by Marietta Paper Mills and incorporated on December 19, 1859, possibly by Andrew Schofield Edmondston and Saxon A. Anderson. Facilities at the paper mill included a mill, oil room, office, mill sluice (raceway), storeroom, dam, machine shop, pulp-grinding mill, and two shelters.


The ruins were added to the National Register of Historic Places in 1973.

Civil War production constraints

The Daily Intelligencer of Atlanta printed a letter dated September 10, 1863, from Mr. A.S. Edmonston. In it, Mr. Edmondston pleads with the Intelligencer, letting them know that while they are the newspaper's main source of paper, they can only send them so much due to war constraints.


Denmead's Flour Mill was up by the bridge and is the mill most folks see driving by on Paper Mill Road.

Edmondston writes:

I have on hand a few bundles of paper, which I will ship you, and this will be the last for some time; for when we shall resume again I cannot tell. My hands volunteered in the Home Guard, to protect the country against raids, and are now called out to guard stores and prepare the defences [sic] of your city, I understand. In the first instance, at the commencement of the war, I was disposed to aid all in my power and encouraged two of the hands to volunteer in Confederate service. This left hardly hands enough to get along with when all were well. Afterwards we lost two or three hands, and this left us short of hands, and one machine has only run when our hands have worked eighteen hours in the day.--We applied for the detail of the hands which has not been done, though the Government has been urgent for paper, and we have strained every nerve to supply. Shorthanded, we have done the best we could, and now all our hands are taken, of course we are obliged to stop. Edmondston goes on to complain about the fact that while the Confederate government demands paper, he is shorthanded because paper workers were not considered vital to the war effort. Edmondston stated: "You know Paper makers are not to be had South, and are not like Shoe-Makers, and many other callings which give exemptions to so many thousands, and cannot be learned after the Conscript officer takes after a fellow."


The Marietta Paper Mill is about 150 yards from the bridge down on the left (Fulton County) side of creek.

The paper supply became even harder to come by when on July 5, 1864, Union soldiers under the command of General Gerrard burned the Marietta Paper Mill, along with Denmead's Flour Mill. The paper mill was rebuilt in 1865, only to burn again in 1870 and be rebuilt in 1871. The mill struggled to survive the years immediately following the second rebuilding. The mills were sold at a public sale in 1873 and restructured as the Marietta Paper Manufacturing Company.



In 1888 and 1889, a wood pulp mill and a twine factory were added to the site, respectively. Finally, in 1902, production at that location stopped.

Media accounts

The Atlanta Constitution printed a picture of the Paper Mill ruins on the banks of the Soap creek in May 1932. The caption read "GREAT WALLS BUILT BY SLAVE LABOR… Before the Civil War this building housed a large paper mill." This is the only reference to slavery in the material concerning the Sope Creek Industrial Area. The language of this caption implies that the paper mill never recovered from the burning by Gerrard's men, when in fact it had.



In 1933, the Atlanta Journal printed an article reminiscing about the Marietta Paper Mills. In an editorial note that accompanied the article, a senior staff member at the Journal, H.H. Cabaniss, recalled that the Marietta Paper Mills, under the ownership of Saxon A. Anderson, supplied paper for a great many of the Atlanta area daily newspapers.



In 1867, Cabaniss had been the business manager for the Atlanta New Era and bought his paper in rolls from the Marietta Paper Mills.

Flour mill, hydroelectric dam, and power plant


Pulp mill retaining wall ruin

Along with the paper mill was Denmead's Flour Mill. Founded in 1855, Edward Denmead had built a flour mill on the west bank about 200 yards up from where Paper Mill Road and Sope Creek intersect. Denmead apparently ran this operation and shared a road off of Paper Mill Road with the Marietta Paper Mills. The flour mill was burnt at the same time as the paper mill, but apparently was never rebuilt.



In 1922, a hydroelectric dam and a power plant were built on the west side of the creek 900 yards upstream from where Paper Mill Road crosses.


As of 1973, this dam was inoperable. Area upstream from Bridge today.

When the GHC submitted its report in March 1973, they gave great detail to the purpose of every remaining structure. Additionally, the description of the layout of the site was accurate enough that someone could attempt to locate and identify all remaining structures.


Supports for paper Mill flume down east side of creek and doorways through structures remaining..



The mill room: "The largest structure remaining is the mill building downstream from Paper Mill Road approximately ¼ mile on the east bank of the Creek.



It contained five rooms and is approximately 300 feet long." The oil room and office was "nearby… just across a small creek."



The pulp-grinding mill was "just south of Paper Mill Road. It is two stories high and approximately 100 feet long." Denmead's flourmill was described, although evidence is difficult to spot today, due to construction. Even the foundations of an old bridge, which lay near the aforementioned dam, were identified.



In the GHC report there is no mention of a printing press. In the all the articles concerning the ruins at Sope Creek, never once is there any mention of a printing press. The idea that the Confederate States of America used to print money on the banks of the Sope Creek had to have developed somewhere.


All sorts of buildings along this stretch of creek.

One single article mentions money printing. The New York Times printed an article on May 31, 1968, written by Lincoln A. Werden, describing the Atlanta Golf Classic being played at Atlanta Country Club. The Atlanta Country Club abuts Sope Creek about a third of a mile from the Sope Creek entrance to the Chattahoochee. Werden writes "The par-3 13th, a 135-yard hole, is a photographer's delight. The tee is on high ground and Soap Creek, a fast moving muddy stream, runs in front of the green. To the left is a waterfall and off to the right of the green is the site of a former Confederate mint."



Outside of the golfers themselves, the only source Werden quoted was the tournament director, Jack Tuthill. At that time, Atlanta Country Club was only four years old and hosting a major tournament event.



Research shows there was no Mint at the Mill on Sope Creek. The Paper Mill in Marietta was one of the first wood using Mills in the State of Georgia. The Wood-using Mill went into operation in 1864 shortly after the original Mill was burned by the Union Army. The Mill made newsprint paper by grinding loblolly and short leaf pine mixed with imported pulp. One of the major products manufactured was paper for Confederate Money. The story of the Mint developed over time from the fact that the Mill manufactured and shipped paper that Confederate Money was printed on.


There was no Mint and the Mill did not print money but it did manufacture the paper.

Ferry at Sope Creek

In 1851, James Isom founded a ferry that crossed the Chattahoochee at the mouth of Sope Creek, and came to own a great deal of land and three slaves, and to be considered wealthy.


Heard's Ferry today.

He died in 1866, and his son-in-law John Heard took over the operations, running the ferry as Heard's Ferry until 1890.

Civil War history

During Sherman's Atlanta Campaign, troops first crossed the Chattahoochee at Sope Creek.



Sherman's troops were divided into three armies. These were the Army of the Cumberland, the Army of the Ohio, and the Army of the Tennessee, commanded by Major Generals George H. Thomas, John M. Schofield, and James B. McPherson, respectively. Johnston was waiting for one of these three armies to be exposed. While they all moved together, they were in fact, three separate units.The largest body of water between Chattanooga, where Sherman started, and Atlanta, was the Chattahoochee River.


Harper's Weekly shows troops making fish traps along Chattahoochee River.

If there was any time in which the one portion of the Army of the Mississippi could become separated, and therefore vulnerable, crossing the Chattahoochee was it.



As the Union Army approached the Chattahoochee, they moved in from the west and took up positions at Vinings Station. Johnston held the bridgehead on the west side of the river, and had a majority of his troops just across the railroad bridge. On the night of July 7, Sherman gave orders to Schofield to move his troops around and to the left, bypassing Johnston. Sherman had given Schofield orders to find a location between Roswell and Sope Creek in which to ford the Chattahoochee. Sherman said, "I wish you to make an examination thereabouts and secure a foothold, fortified on the other side, anywhere about Roswell or mouth of Soap Creek. I also know that Johnston's cavalry has moved to the south flank. It is important to do this at once, for the fords are very important to us." Schofield located a ford on the Chattahoochee one half mile upstream of the mouth of Sope Creek.


Schofield advanced a division across the river at the ford and instructed them to take up positions opposite of the mouth of Sope Creek. There, they would support bridge-building operations and provide cover while the engineers constructed a pontoon bridge at Isom's Ferry.

He then sent to Sherman the following:

I have not been able to reconnoiter as far as Roswell to-day. I find a pretty good crossing near mouth of Soap Creek. Half a mile above the creek is a shallow ford where infantry can cross easily, but there is no road leading to it and it would be difficult to make one.

Isham's  Ferry just below mouth of the creek is a good place for a bridge. About 400 yards from the river on east side is a commanding ridge very favorable for a bridge-head. The crossing would be very difficult if that ridge were held in force; but there appears at present only a squad of cavalry and one or two pieces of artillery. If there be no greater force to oppose it, the crossing can be effected very easily by crossing infantry at the ford above, to clear the ridge and cover the construction of the bridge. The ground on this side is favorable for our artillery. Johnston's cavalry being gone, I take it for granted that I can cross at Roswell without difficulty. The higher up the river the less probability of serious opposition; therefore I think we may choose whichever point you deem it most desirable to have. I propose to move at daylight and cross the river with as little delay as possible, and believe there is very little chance of failure, no matter which point you select.



Sherman decided that McPherson would hold his position across from Johnston, and at the last moment, swing around in the same fashion as Schofield and cross the Chattahoochee at Shallow Ford, what is today known as Shallowford Road. Sherman wrote to Schofield saying: You may move to the neighborhood of the mouth of Soap Creek. Mask well your command and make a lodgment across the Chattahoochee, but do not attempt it until you have a ford nearby by which to reinforce the party first sent, or by which it may be necessary to retire. We can, after lodgement, make roads to the crossing and may add pontoon bridges, of which we have enough for four bridges. After securing a point opposite Soap Creek, Roswell will follow as a matter of course, and will be additional. The moment I hear that General Garrard has made a lodgment at Roswell, I will send a division of General McPherson to hold fast all he makes. With Roswell and mouth of Soap Creek, we have plenty of room, with Marietta as the depot. I will go down to General McPherson's and stir them up in the morning by way of diversion.



The Chattahoochee River was crossed as elements of Wilder’s Lightning Brigade (now commanded by Col. Abram Miller) crossed the river. The engagement that followed was comical, as Miller’s men, stripped of their clothing except for their leather accoutrements, waded into the stream with their Spencer repeating rifles and opened fire at the would-be defenders on the opposite bank. As they crossed, Miller’s men fired and then ducked into the water to work the lever and reload before popping back up and firing again.


I'm saving the Chattahoochee River for a future post, with a huge tangent on the "Ramblin Raft Race".

For nearly thirty-six hours, Schofield's troops were isolated on the other side of the Chattahoochee. Even at the end of that time, when McPherson was on the east bank of the river, he was still miles away from Schofield in Roswell. The opportunity for a counter-offensive that Johnston had been waiting for the previous two months presented itself in those thirty-six hours. Instead of a counter-offensive, Johnston was caught complete by surprise and therefore out of position. The majority of his forces were still in defensive positions at Vinings Station on the east side of the Chattahoochee. Schofield reported to Sherman:

I have a division (General Cox's) [Author's note: General Cox's 23rd Army Corps consisted of four divisions, at the time of this letter, only one was known to be across the river at this place). It has a good position, and is rapidly intrenching. Colonel Buell has laid one bridge and will have another across to-night. I spent most of the day in reconnoitering and perfecting arrangements to make success sure. All was done so quietly that they enemy was taken entirely by surprise, so that when my artillery and infantry opened from the west bank the enemy fled, leaving a piece of artillery, which fell into our hands. My men crossed by the ford and in boats at the same time without losing a single man. The enemy used his artillery upon our officers while reconnoitering during the day, but when we opened upon them they fired but a single shot and fled. I presume they were Brown's militia. We have gained the desired point, captured one piece of artillery and nobody hurt. I will give you information concerning roads, etc., beyond the river as soon as possible.


Yankees across the river.

By 8:30 p.m. on the night of July 8, Schofield had laid a bridge crossing the Chattahoochee at Isom's Ferry and had relocated four divisions to the east bank. Fearing a flanking maneuver by Sherman, Johnston had no alternative but to abandon the west side of the river. He withdrew into Atlanta, burning the railroad bridge behind him.


Sherman kicked Johnston across the Hooch.

It was after this debacle that Jefferson Davis decided to replace Johnston with General John B. Hood.

Civil War Details

July 5. Garrard reached this point on Willeo Creek, where he camped. From here a regiment was sent to burn the Soap Creek Paper Mills. On the same day a detachment moved to Roswell & while the 7th Pennsylvania Cavalry drove the Confederate defenders across the bridge, the cotton & woolen factories were burned.


Garrard's Cavalry at Roswell Marker Post was near Marietta, Georgia, in Cobb County. Marker was at the intersection of Lower Roswell Road and Timber Ridge Road, on the right when traveling west on Lower Roswell Road.



It read - With the occupation of Marietta by Federal forces July 3, 1864, Garrard's cav. was sent to Roswell to secure a Chattahoochee River crossing for the passage of McPherson's Army of the Tennessee, which was later shifted from the Federal right to the extreme left. July 5. Garrard reached this point on Willeo Creek, where he camped. From here a regiment was sent to burn the Soap Creek Paper Mills. On the same day a detachment moved to Roswell & while the 7th Pa. Cav. drove the Confederate defenders across the bridge, the cotton & woolen factories were burned. On the 6th, a regiment is sent to burn the Soap Creek Paper Mill.

July 6th 1864

Sherman stopped by Johnston's River Line yesterday, shuffles his troops to do an end around sweep from the right side to the left side. He had flanked right all the way through Georgia since the beginning of May in the Atlanta Campaign. Now he flanks left for the only time from Smyrna and Mableton to Roswell and Sope Creek. It was a bad day for Mills in the area.



HEADQUARTERS FIRST DIVISION CAVALRY, July 6, 1864.
Lieutenant D. F. HOW, Acting Assistant Adjutant-General:

I have the honor to report that, in compliance with orders received, and also with verbal directions from Major-General Sherman, I proceeded to this point (Hargrove's house), divided my force, sending one detachment to Powers' Ferry, and marching with the other to the mouth of Soap Creek, about six miles distant, where there is also a ferry and a bad ford, said by citizens to be almost impracticable. Artillery was opened from the other side of the river on my men at both points, one gun at the upper and two at the lower ferry, without any effect, however, except killing 3 horses. I found a bridge across Soap Creek, three-quarters of a mile from its mouth, burned; the bridge at Roswell Factory has also been burned. The distance between here and there is twelve miles. There is no difficulty in communicating with General Garrard, as there are no rebels on this side of the Chattahoochee. I find this country full of ravine and bridges, tolerably open and well watered, but there is neither grass, wheat, nor other forage on which to subsist stock. The little that was in the vicinity has been exhausted by Wheeler's force, who has been encamped here, until yesterday morning, for the last five days. I will furnish you with a map of the roads, &c., some time to-morrow. None of the enemy's trains had passed this way; they all crossed on bridges below. I forgot to mention that at Powers' Ferry is a small boat and a wire stretched across. I can get my artillery in position within 500 yards of their battery. This ferry is well watched and guarded. I have pickets also at mouth of Soap Creek and at Johnson's Ferry, a mile and a half above that point.

I am, sir, very respectfully, your obedient servant, 

E. M. McCOOK, Brigadier-General, Commanding Division.


The Soap Creek Paper Mills Marker (right) and The 23d Corps at Soap Creek Marker (left) is on Road to parking lot for Chattahoochee River NRA 0 miles south of Paper Mill Road, on the left when traveling south. In the parking lot for the Chattahoochee River Sope Creek National Recreation Area.



HEADQUARTERS FIRST DIVISION CAVALRY, July 7, 1864.
Major J. C. McCOY, Aide-de-Camp:

Some of my men, four or five, got to the other bank of the river yesterday evening. This afternoon I sent a small party of the First Tennessee to attempt a crossing; the enemy permitted them to reach the middle of the river, when they opened so briskly with artillery and musketry that they could not get across. I have possession of an island near the middle of the river where everything they do on the opposite bank can be observed. A ford is reported some six or seven miles above here only knee-deep and practicable for infantry. I have sent officers up to examine it and report. So soon as they return I will send you the result.

Very respectfully, your obedient servant,

E. M. McCOOK, Brigadier-General, Commanding.


Isom's Ferry Marker is on Heards Drive ¼ mile west of Heards Ferry Road, on the left when traveling west. Marker is located in the old Heard Family Cemetery, at the end of Heards Drive.



HEADQUARTERS ARMY OF THE OHIO, Isham's Ferry, Chattahoochee, July 8, 1864-7 p.m.
Major-General SHERMAN, Commanding Military Division of the Mississippi:

GENERAL: I have a division (General Cox's) across the river at this place. It has a good position, and is rapidly intrenching. Colonel Buell has laid one bridge and will have another across to-night. I spent most of the day in reconnoitering and perfecting arrangements to make success sure. All was done so quietly that they enemy was taken entirely by surprise, so that when my artillery and infantry opened from the west bank the enemy fled, leaving a piece of artillery, which fell into our hands. My men crossed by the ford and in boats at the same time without losing a single man. The enemy used his artillery upon our officers while reconnoitering during the day, but when we opened upon them they fired but a single shot and fled. I presume they were Brown's militia. We have gained the desired point, captured one piece of artillery and nobody hurt. I will give you information concerning roads, &c., beyond the river as soon as possible.

Very respectfully,J. M. SCHOFIELD,Major-General.



From the 4th Army Corps diary………..

The regiment, which started out at 6 a. m., marched to the vicinity of the mouth of Soap Creek. The distance from the left of this corps to Schofield 's right is about five miles in a direct line and seven by practicable roads. General Schofield commenced to put down his pontoon bridge at 3.30 p. m. He crossed four regiments over and made a lodgment on the other side about an hour before sundown. 8.30 p. m., received instructions from department headquarters stating that General Garrard is to effect a lodgment at Roswell Factory to-morrow morning, and as soon as he reports himself successful General Sherman is to send a corps of the Army of the Tennessee to that point. It may be necessary to send the nearest division of this corps to that point before McPherson's troops can get there, as they are so far off. Such division will therefore be held in readiness to move. Also, the troops of this corps will make a display at daybreak tomorrow, to cover the movements up the river. In accordance with these instructions, General Newton was ordered to hold his division in readiness to move, and Generals Newton and Wood ordered to make the demonstration. But 7 or 8 men wounded to-day; 1 killed. Usual picket-firing at the river. Day very hot.


Sope Creek Industries marker was in same parking lot for Sope Creek Trail. It read: By 1854 Edward Denmead was operating a large flour mill upstream from the bridge over Sope Creek. By 1859 a paper mill was operating downstream, making writing, printing, and wrapping paper. Both industries were built here to utilize water power. Burned by the Federals, the paper mill was rebuilt and operated until the early 1900´s. A unit of the paper mill operated in Marietta until 1918.

HDQRS. MILITARY DIVISION OF THE MISSISSIPPI, Near Chattahoochee, July 9, 1864.
Major General H. W. HALLECK, Washington, D. C.:

General Schofield effected a lodgment across the Chattahoochee near the mouth of Soap Creek last night, and has two good pontoon bridges. He captured the single gun that guarded the passage, but the guard fled. General Garrard crossed at Roswell Factory, and has a secure lodgment at the shallow ford. General Dodge is moving to that point to take Garrard's place, and has orders to build a good bridge there. These crossings will be strongly covered with forts. I will then endeavor to break the railroad south of Atlanta by an expedition from Decatur under General Rousseau, and another from here. In the mean time will collect supplies and secure better my rear, and then cross over the main army and go ahead. Weather is very hot, but the country is high and healthy.

W. T. SHERMAN, 

Major-General.

American Whitewater

You come to the creek in the summer, and you think, cool place hop across rocks play in sun. American Whitewater looks for storms. The gauge is on river left at the put-in. It reads in feet. Last checked the USGS put-in gauge had been washed away in a recent flood. There is still a spray painted gauge on the Lower Roswell Road bridge pilings.A visual check of the stream from the Paper Mill Road bridge is strongly recommended before putting on. There is more stream flow info in the text below.



Sope Creek is one of the best whitewater runs in Metro Atlanta.At high flows, around 1100 cfs or above 8 feet Sope Creek can turn into a solid class 5 run. At moderate flows its a class 3-4 run. At all flows the water quality is nasty. Sope is very polluted due to street runoff. From the put-in on Lower Roswell Road there is about a mile of mostly flatwater. At higher flows there are two small surf waves and a good splat rock in this stretch. Eventually you will round a bend and the bottom will drop out.



At the first good, right hand bend, a ledge forms. Be on the far right, almost under the trees to find a sluice that punches what can at some levels be a nasty hole. The meat of Sope runs over a series of bedrock ledges. These ledges make for a series of fairly deep sticky holes. Sometimes they are punch-able, sometimes they are not. The best way to get an idea of how Sope is running is to do a visual check from the bridge at Paper Mill Rd.

First Big Ledge



Your basic riverwide ledge. Run on river right at low flows. At moderate to high flows the ledge forms a big nasty riverwide hole.

If the hole immediately past the bridge is the only thing that looks nasty, then the river is at a moderate level. If the hole has formed immediately above the bridge pilings, then you had better be on top of your game before putting in. Generally the hole above the bridge does not form until about 9 feet on the USGS gauge. I think that correlates to about 1500 cfs in a 65 foot wide ditch. 500 to 1000 cfs make much more sense in a stream bed this size.

Paper Mill Rapid



The rapid directly under Paper Mill Bridge. Class 3 at low flows, Class 5 at high flows. The hole downstream of the bridge becomes a keeper when the water is high. When the water is really high a riverwide hole forms on the upstream side of the bridge. Its worth a look from the bridge before you put on.



At high water the 4 ledges down to Paper Mill Road can form river wide keeper hydraulics. The top one recently held a boat for over a half an hour at high flows. The one below the bridge once held a 55 gallon drum for a couple of days.


Less turbulent flow.

Below the Paper Mill Rd bridge the rapids continue most of the way to the hooch. Its class 3 at normal flows, and class 3+ with no eddies at higher flows. Below the bridge at higher flows, dropping holes sideways so you can scout and surf at the same time is not unusual.



Sope Creek is also noted for a variety of large strainers that tend to relocate with every flood. Toward the end of the run are two pipes and one bridge that must be dealt with. At lower flows you can go under the pipes, sometimes you can go over them, and sometimes they are clogged with wood. Same with the Columns Drive bridge.


Good for tubes and dogs almost any time.

Sope only runs after a hard rain, and usually holds its water for less than a day. Be aware that the water level can go up over 1000 cfs in less than 30 minutes during a good rain. This recently caught a group by surprise. Read the story (Scroll down to comments section) - Two pretty good tales.

Logistics:

Put-in below the bridge on Lower Roswell Road. About 100 yards east of the creek is a small side street and a semi-legal place to park.The usual take out is the Metro Hooch put-in. Taking out at Columns Drive is a good way to get your car towed. They are serious about those no parking signs in front of the multi-million dollar homes.


For more adrenaline, about a quarter mile past the bridge on Paper Mill is a micro creek coming in on river left. If you feel like breaking your boat, carry up and run the falls by a putting green on the Atlanta Country Club. Its a back tweaker... but its been run by a couple of people.

Sope Creek runs about 2.5 miles between Lower Roswell Rd and Columns Drive. The paddle out from Columns Drive to Powers Island is about another 2.5 miles.



Rottenwood Creek, less than 5 miles away, can usually be run the same day that Sope runs.


Holy Cow Rottenwood Creek.

The Trail

Tucked into a high-end neighborhood just outside Atlanta, Sope Creek Park offers over three miles of scenic hiking, mountain biking, and running trails. The park’s extensive network of trails explore the stone ruins of a paper mill destroyed by Union troops during the Civil War, now standing in multi-story, castle-like ruins.



Alongside the paper mill ruins, Sope Creek flows broad and shallow, coursing through angular shoals under a canopy of trees towards the wide Chattahoochee River downstream. And there’s a large, glassy pond near the trailhead that offers tranquil views and, in warm-weather months, abundant wildflowers along its banks.



Sope Creek Park is one of many parks in the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area – a network of fantastic parks and hiking trails on the Chattahoochee River in Metro Atlanta. Compared to other parks in the Chattahoochee River NRA like the ultra-popular Cochran Shoals Trail, Sope Creek is usually less crowded, offering a quiet, local escape from Atlanta’s whirlwind of traffic, noise, and concrete.



This scenic loop explores the park’s highlights, visiting the paper mill ruins on both sides of Sope’s rocky creek bed before looping to the placid waters of Sibley Pond.



Sope Creek Trail: the hike

The hike departs from the Sope Creek trailhead (see the trail maps and driving directions), traveling east and dropping elevation through a young hardwood forest.



Sope Creek Park offers an extensive trail network, and numbered signposts and maps at each major trail intersection help with wayfinding through the park’s maze of trails.



From the trailhead, this hike travels eastbound to signposts SC3 and SC4.



It then drops to the paper mill ruins at SC27. The hike reaches the towering 19th-century mill ruins at just under .5 mile.



The mill was built in 1855 and was destroyed by Union troops during the Civil War, targeted for its role in paper production used for Confederate currency. The remnants of the foundation and walls stand, cathedral-like, beside Sope Creek, and a small spillway waterfall tumbles beside the stone ruins.



Following the paths around the ruins, the hike reaches the creek’s banks and begins following the creek’s flow downstream, hiking southeast and away from the bridge. The creek tumbles over strewn angular boulders, flowing past the 19th-century paper mill ruins.



Colorful wildflowers line the creek’s banks, stretching tall to reach the sunlight streaming through the leafy canopy above.



Before reaching a side creek that flows from Sibley Pond, the hike skips over the creek’s rocky, angular bed to visit the foundation and ruins of a second mill building on the opposite bank.


Sope Creek, not a good float most of the time.

The hike crosses back to the creek’s western banks, following a small tributary creek uphill to signpost SC6. The hike turns left at SC6, crossing the creek via stepping stones and winding through the shady forest to SC7 and SC13. Reaching SC13, the hike hangs a right, traveling westbound to the banks of Sibley Pond.



The pond is often unusually clear: peer quietly from the shore to glimpse its inhabitants, including turtles and large fish. The hike follows the paths around Sibley Pond to SC17 and SC15, making a loop around its grassy, wildflower-lined shore. At SC15, this hike turns left, hiking northwest to the Sope Creek trailhead, and completing the adventure at 1.5 miles.



I really liked this spot, the first time I went down Paper Mill Road. This has been a Sunday hike many times for me and my kids growing up in Cobb County over the years.



Now this is a true Natural Wonder, very scenic.



Top Row Dawg Addendum

Woo, I found some old TRD images from the 1990's.





Two more Cobb County summits to go, and I will cover them both in our next Post to close out Cobb County for now. Today's GNW gals are what else.......Soapy!