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Georgia Natural Wonder #154 - Red Top Mountain. 1,460
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Georgia Natural Wonder #154 - Red Top Mountain

We are going to keep with our theme of exploring Bartow County since we finished our cave theme in Kingston. We covered Kingston and the ghost town of Cassville, now we turn south on I-75. Red Top Mountain State Park is located in the northwestern part of the state, and on the northwestern edge of metro Atlanta. It is in southeastern Bartow County near Cartersville, and is named for iron-rich Red Top Mountain. The park covers 1,776 acres on a peninsula jutting north into Lake Allatoona, formed on the park's north and east sides by the Etowah River arm and on the west by Allatoona Creek arm.

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The park's main popularity however comes from being near Atlanta, and just off Interstate 75. It is one of the most-visited parks in the state. A modern lodge was constructed in 1985, but it closed, along with the restaurant and conference rooms, on June 30, 2010 due to statewide budget cuts.

History

There was no Indian battle here. There was no bloody conflict that made the mountain top red with blood. I had always heard that tale but Internet research shows that is unfounded. The Ranger Gal (Looked Cherokee) pushed this information about "Young Deer". He was a full blooded Cherokee Indian. He was married to a white woman, Winnifred (Winnie) Tidwell. Their union produced a son, Indian John Tidwell. Young Deer died after being shot by an unknown killer.

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The stone grave contains the prayer: "Let me walk in beauty and make my eyes behold the red and purple sunset. Make my hand respect the things you have made, my ears sharp to hear you voice. Make me wise, so that I may know the things you have taught me, the lessons you have hidden in every rock and leaf."

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The park also maintains Allatoona Pass Battlefield, a historically significant battlefield due to the well-preserved trenches and earthworks. But we are going to cover that as a separate natural Wonder with a dramatic history tangent.

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GNW #155 - Allatoona Pass Battlefield

Now I made a trip up here and found a rather new Visitor Center where the lodge use to be. The Ranger Gal (Pic Violation was cute) said the lodge was burned a few years back. The Red Top Mountain would be more of a mountain but most of it's slope is now under Lake Allatoona. There is no peak as I was hoping to find. The real Natural Wonder of Red Top Mountain is the eroded tree and rocky landscape of the Lake shoreline. The conversion of this deep valley into the water recreation mecca it is today.

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The history of Lake Allatoona began before it was first authorized by the United States Congress and signed into law by President Franklin D. Roosevelt through the Flood Control Act of 1941, and updated later with the Flood Control Act of 1946.  Obviously, flood control was one of the primary goals of the project that created the lake officially known as “Allatoona Lake.”

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Downstream is Rome, not Venice.

Although construction was authorized in August of 1941, the project was shelved until the end of WWII.  In 1946, after a delay of five years, work began with fervor. The mighty Allatoona Dam was set in place on the Etowah River. 

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Unfortunately, the town of Allatoona was flooded, along with many farms, homes and businesses, when the land behind the dam turned into Allatoona Lake.

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Can see Park Marina at Red Top Mountain State Park on far shore.

The town of Allatoona was established in 1829 by miners along the gold-rich Allatoona Creek in the southern part of Bartow County. The town grew steadily and reached its height in the 1840s when gold production at the creek was at its peak. But shortly thereafter the town began to decline as miners moved to California in search of richer claims. At its peak, the town has a large population of several hundred people, three productive grist mills, two churches a post office, several plantations and a school. The town was also home the Allatoona Railroad pass on the Western and Atlantic Railroad which was completed in 1845.

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Clayton House far left of image.

Despite the emigration of many miners in the early 1850s out of the town to California, the town survived until 1940s when Lake Allatoona was created flooding most of the town land. Today most of the town site is underwater on the lake with the remaining part conserved by the Red Top Mountain State Park. There are a number of old structures still standing at the town site. These include the Lake Allatoona Inn which was constructed in 1893.

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Scuba Dive these old structures now underwater.

One of the first official buildings was a small post office that was active until 1918. Before the emergence of the civil war, the town became increasingly popular, people started coming to the town in search of gold and other resources; a silver mine was also located nearby that also brought miners to the small town. As well as a blacksmith, a small depot and a dry goods store. A small Universalist church was built in 1910 which also functioned as a schoolhouse. The town later expanded and added a new school house site which would be located just a half mile southeast of the railroad that ran through town. John Clayton was among the first settlers to the town of Allatoona he was a rich slave owner and owned several plantations around the area. Several of the founders including John Clayton are buried in the cemetery adjacent to the church.

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John Clayton Grave.

The graves of founders and other town folk can still be visited to this day.

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Students of Allatoona Universalist Church & School.

Being a Western & Atlantic Railroad stop and on the main road toward Atlanta, pre and post war times in Allatoona were bustling. The Clayton-Mooney home, circa 1836, is the only structure still standing that is a reminder of days gone by. Bullet holes and blood stains that are still visible remind us of the homes use as union headquarters and hospital during the battle. Prior to the Civil War, the area had been part of the Gold Rush days. It is also told that a silver mine was nearby.

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Clayton-Mooney home. Memorial to 16 unknown soldiers buried in yard bottom left of image.

After the smoke had settled and years marched on, Allatoona continued to progress. J. L. Armstrong, a builder of several homes and stores in the Acworth area, settled his family in a lovely Victorian home he built in 1894. He also ran Armstrong General Store. His competition, William McMichen had a store just across the road. Mr. McMichen was raising his family in the old Clayton House. John Clayton had a nephew that rode with Doc Holliday’s outlaw gang. It is said that the nephew hid out a while at the Clayton House. Mr. McMichen had a son named Clayton who became a famous fiddler and played with the Georgia Wildcats.

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Famous for the dog in the lap technique.

He fused his interests in country, folk, jazz, swing, and pop music into one of the most recognizable fiddle styles. His playing with Jimmie Rodgers and Gid Tanner and His Skillet Lickers in the 1920s helped to lay the foundation for country music. He later had a star placed in his honor on Nashville’s Walk of Fame.

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Clayton McMichen



Lake Allatoona was a Christmas present that we continue to enjoy today.  That’s when the lake began to fill in 1949.  The power plant began to operate on January 31, 1950.  By May of 1950, the lake was full, with 12,010 acres of water. This reservoir is mostly in southeastern Bartow County and southwestern Cherokee County. A small portion is located in Cobb County near Acworth.

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Lake Allatoona also supplies much of the drinking water for the three counties that it is in. The water is supplied mostly by the Etowah River, and its major tributary the Little River (which joins the lake at Bell's Ferry), and in turn Noonday Creek. The other major arm of the lake is Allatoona Creek, extending down to Acworth, where pre-existing Lake Acworth now empties directly into Allatoona at Lake Acworth Drive (Georgia 92). Other significant streams include Kellogg Creek and Rose Creek.

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The total cost of the Allatoona Dam project for construction, land and relocation was $31,500,000 in 1950.  That’s roughly $320 million in 2017 dollars.

The history of Lake Allatoona has provided one especially huge benefit.  Authorities say Allatoona Dam has prevented nearly $80 million in flood damages since 1950. Lake Allatoona has more visitor hours than most of the other 450 Corps of Engineers projects in the United States.

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Party time weekends.

To most of Lake Allatoona’s six million annual visitors, recreation is their highest priority.  The lake offers everything you could hope for along its 270 miles of shoreline.  Come and find the most beautiful spots for rest and relaxation, hiking and exciting water sports, and burning burgers in the great outdoors.

Entering Red Top Mountain Park

There is no gated entrance to the park. Visitors are required to pay a $5 per-vehicle day use fee. You can also purchase an annual pass for $50. This annual pass is good at all of Georgia's state parks.

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There is an entry fee/entry booth along Red Top Beach Road, which is the the road that leads to the swimming area. You can pay your entry fee there and obtain information about the park. Along the main road through the park (Red Top Mountain Road) is the visitors center.

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It serves as the camping check-in office, a store (drinks, snacks, and souvenirs), and park information center. You can also pay your entry fee here.

Accommodations

There are 18 cottages in the park. These accommodations offer you an opportunity to stay close to the shoreline of Lake Allatoona and relax in a pleasant, comfortable setting. Depending on the amount of forest and the foliage you may or may not have an unobstructed view of the lake. The cottages are all located near one another on the park's Cottage Road, forming what resembles a small neighborhood. The cottages are a great option for you if you want to spend a few nights at the park but do not want to camp.

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You cannot reserve a cabin for a single night stay. The minimum length of time you can reserve and stay in a cabin varies from 2 to 4 nights, with longer stays required during the busier times of the year. Cabin fees do not include the Red Top Mountain Park entry fees. You are still required to pay these fees for all vehicles.

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If you are into camping and want to stay over at Red Top you have a few choices. There is a 92 campsite campground, a pioneer campground, and a yurt. The main campground is located behind a gated road just off of Red Top Mountain Road. When you check in for your stay at the Visitor's Center, you will be given the code to get into the gate. You are permitted to have two vehicles at each campsite in addition to your camping vehicle (RV, pop-up, etc.) or your tent. Each campsite has water, electricity, a picnic table, and a fire ring or grille. You can check in after 1 P.M. and no later than 10 PM. Check out time is 1:00 p.m. Pets are allowed provided they are kept on a 6’ leash.

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Reservations can be made online from the State of Georgia State Park website. The prices and complete rules for camping can also be found there.

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The park's single yurt is found in the main campground. This site is located close to the lake. The yurt is fashioned after a traditional structure used by pastoral Mongolian herders. It consists of a circular wooden frame about 20 feet in diameter with material covering and enclosing the frame. Inside there is a hardwood floor, electricity, furniture, a heater, and a fan (no air conditioning). The bunk mattresses and convertible couches in the yurt can accommodate six people.

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Rope swing from across the way.

You will need to bring your own linens or sleeping bags. Outside there is a deck, a picnic table, a fire ring, and a lantern holder. There are no cooking facilities nor are you allowed to cook within the yurt itself. Check-in and check out time is 1 P.M.

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Hey kid show us how it is done son.

Bathrooms and hot showers are found in a number of buildings that are strategically located throughout the campground.

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A pioneer campgrounds is available for groups of 25 or more. This is considered a primitive camping accommodation and is suitable for tent camping. There is water available on site and pit toilets for bathrooms. One boat trailer is allowed per campsite, provided there is adequate space to park it. Campsites have a six-person occupancy limit. All tents must fit on the designated tent pads.

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Allatoona Lake -

Boating


There is a privately owned full service marina in Red Top Mountain State Park. Park Marina is nestled inside Red Top Mountain, Georgia’s largest state park. 

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Open daily all year long, Park Marina can accommodate any size boat on Lake Allatoona. 

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Park Marina has been updated, improved and refined for more than three decades.

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Their extensive amenities will make every visit to Lake Allatoona as close to perfect as possible.

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Park Marina is home to Paradise Boat Rentals, where you can rent boats in many sizes, colors and flavors.  Choose from pontoon boats, runabouts and personal watercraft.

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There are also boat ramps available for use by park visitors but they are sometimes closed due to drought.

Swimming

A swimming beach is open during the warmest months of the year.

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Picnic tables all along beach.

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Miniature Golf here too by beach.

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Fishing

Lake Allatoona is a popular place to fish. Anglers try their luck from the shoreline and from boats.

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Georgia fishing laws are enforced, which means if you are over 16 years old you must have a license to fish.

Picnics / Parties - Outdoor Picnic Shelters

There are seven covered picnic areas. They are $40 per day and include barbecue grills, picnic tables, and trash cans. This fee is in addition to the per vehicle charge for entering the park.

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Red Top Mountain also has two Group Shelters that are great for larger parties $230 - $250. These facilities can accommodate more people (#1 - up to 100 people, #2 - 200 people) than the picnic shelters and are quite nice facilities.

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They offer a large enclosed space, are climate controlled (both are heated, #1 has air conditioning), have a full kitchen, and their own bathrooms.

Annual events

    Hills of Iron (March)
    Springtime at the Homestead (April)
    Mountain Music Series (May - July)
    Harvest Time at the Homestead (September)
    Battle of Allatoona Pass (October)


Red Top Mountain State Park has 7 great hiking trails, running trails, dogs leash trails and more. They are all moderate trails ranging from 2.2 to 12.6 miles and from 859 to 1,020 feet above sea level. They provide an incredibly scenic spot to catch some sublime water views near metro Atlanta.

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And nestled on one of the lake’s large, finger-like peninsulas that wind and meander over its gently rolling forests and beside Allatoona’s iron-rich shores.

Description

A short, paved trail behind the park office is suitable for wheelchairs and strollers, welcoming guests to explore a reconstructed 1860s homestead, including a log cabin and blacksmith shop. The park's music series and homestead events are held at this historic cabin. Named for the soils rich red color caused by high iron-ore content, Red Top Mountain was once an important iron mining area.

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If you continue on this trail, it is called the Homestead Trail. The hike dives into the forest, following yellow trail blazes under a mixed pine and hardwood forest.The trail passes a small, boulder filled creek bed in a mossy, fern-filled valley.

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The trail follows the contours of a meandering stream in a valley filled with large, scattered boulders. Wildflowers thrive trailside during warmer months, abundantly filling the forest floor with color. The trail approaches a large lake inlet at 1.5 miles, beginning to follow the contours of the lake’s finger-like peninsulas.

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Songbirds, turtles, and herds of deer thrive in the park’s many forested acres that frame Allatoona’s shores with tall pines. The park’s trails wind through the forest, catching beautiful reflective views from the lake shore.

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Multiple access points along the lake make for a fantastic spot for a mid-hike swim for you and your water-loving dogs.

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Red Top Mountain Loop Trail is a 5.6 mile heavily trafficked loop trail located near Cartersville, Georgia that features a lake and is rated as moderate. The trail offers a number of activity options and is accessible year-round. Dogs are also able to use this trail but must be kept on leash. It's good hike during a good day, although you could get lost (in a good way) playing and looking at the neat large rock formations.

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One reviewer said;

It's a good challenge and worth it once you get to the top. Bring a snack and water if it is a hot day. P.S. if you have an active dog this is perfect exercise! enjoy!

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I never did find this mountain top trail or view.

Another reviewer said;

Nice trail about 1.5 mile each way from parking lot to lookout point. Many rocks on the trail along with large tree roots. The view at the top is well worth the hike. Can see Cartersville, Allatoona Lake, Kennesaw Mountain, and downtown Atlanta.

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Waited weeks for a good clear day where I was not working, to find this view but alas, no mountain top within park as per Lady Ranger.

Last reviewer commenter said;

Well marked, nicely maintained, and surprisingly quiet considering how popular it is. The views were gorgeous and there is enough of a variety in the trails to really give you a workout.

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The only mountain top views I saw were in the gated communities across the lake.

The Iron Hill Trail is perfect for beginning mountain bikers. The gravel-topped 4 mile trail is open to both hikers and bikers, offering pretty views of the lake’s shoreline.

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270 miles of shoreline, damn that is like driving to Savannah from Atlanta.

One excited commenter on Atlanta Trails noted;

I am so thankful that Georgia state parks have stayed open during this virus mania.  Being able to explore the outdoors has been good for my soul.  I have been exploring our state parks and, so far, this is my favorite.  Unfortunately I did not get to hike as much of it as my friend and I had planned due to some rain and getting to the park a bit later than we had hoped.  However, even with the 2-3 trails we hiked, we decided we really love this park. 

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We started out parking at the visitor center and hiking the Visitor Center Loop trail.  Immediately we noticed how nice the trail was and how nice the trail markings were as well as the signs.  This particular trail covers a section near the lake rather quickly from the visitor center and it is easy access to the water for kids who want to splash in it a bit.  At the end of the trail we switched to the campground trail by crossing the street.  There are a couple of downed trees on this trail but there is a make shift trail that goes around these and then gets back on the trail. 

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Top Row Dawg Addendum

You come across this big bridge to the park from I-75.

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Off to the left immediately across the bridge is a boat ramp.

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These fine ladies were taking in the view and feeling the lake breeze.

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Look across the other way on this mini peninsula and you see the beach in the distance.

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On the right across the bridge is this excellent shoreline with boulders everywhere.

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You know how TRD is about boulders in Georgia.

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The boulders go up into the woods.

The Pine trees on the shore with the roots all exposed.

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Just gorgeous, Red Top Mountain shoreline.

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When I was at the Marina, the lady let me in gate to drive out and take picture of dam across the way.

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Zoom in.

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Red Top Mountain, may be man made, the lake, but the recreation and splendor of the shoreline makes it a State Park and a Natural Wonder of Georgia.

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Tangent George Washington Carver State Park

George Washington Carver State Park was a state park in the U.S. state of Georgia. It existed from 1950 to 1975, when it was then leased to Bartow County as a county park. Red Top Mountain, located on Lake Allatoona, consists of 1,553 acres and derives its name from the rich red color of the soil that comes from the high iron content in the ground. In 1950, the state initially leased the land for 25 years from the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers. The park served not only to preserve the area’s history, but also boost Bartow County’s growth and agricultural economy.

History.

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In 1950, Atlanta resident and former Tuskegee Airman John Loyd Atkinson Sr. was instrumental in establishing George Washington Carver State Park (1950–1975), the state’s only park ever named for an African American.

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Atkinson had leased the 345 acres adjacent to Red Top Mountain Park from the Corps of Engineers with the intention of establishing a private resort for Blacks, like American Beach, Florida. Governor Herman Talmadge helped establish the park and open it next to Red Top Mountain State Park, although operated and maintained separately. Atkinson became the park superintendent, the first African-American park manager in the state, serving from 1950 to 1958. James Clarence Benham, father of Georgia Supreme Court Justice Robert Benham, became Carver Park's second park manager, serving for three years.

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Although Georgia has the oldest public recreation area in the nation (Indian Springs deeded to Georgia in 1825), it wasn't until 1950 that Georgia had its first Negro State Park. It is also the only State Park in Georgia to ever be named for an African American.

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The History of George Washington Carver State Park is illustrative of the times. Immediately after the war, there were no parks for blacks and segregation laws were strictly enforced in state parks for whites. John Loyd Atkinson, a Tuskegee Airman, returned from the Second World War and sought a recreational facility for African Americans. He had little luck getting permits on his own until the State Parks system stepped in. The State Parks Division leased, 1457 acres, which became Red Top Mountain State Park and 345 acres, which became George Washington Carver State Park on the newly created Lake Allatoona (1950). John Atkinson became the first Black Park Superintendent in Georgia and while there built a clubhouse/concession stand, playground, boat ramp, boat and fishing docks, swim beach with diving platform and residence.

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Robert Benham, while Georgia's First Black Supreme Court Chief Justice, writes that Carver became "...a black recreational Mecca and attracted visitors from throughout the southeast. Several well-known entertainers such as Ray Charles and Little Richard performed at the park.... The park also served as the summer home of the St. John's Ski Bees, a black ski club, which was headquartered in Jacksonville, Florida. The St. John's Ski Bees was the only black water ski club in Georgia, performing each summer and drew people from throughout the southeast. They did barefoot skiing, sock takeoffs, one legged skiing and ramp jumping." This is the lake where Rev. Andrew Young and his family learned to water ski ("A Way Out Of No Way") and where Mrs. Coretta Scott King remembers her family spending many weekends at church outings.

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Atkinson operated the park from 1950 to 1958 and helped start a black Girl Scout Camp at Carver as a sub-lease on the Corps of Engineers property. Samuel Nathan was the last superintendent of Carver. In one of the all-to-familiar cost-cutting moves, Carver operations were combined with Red Top, Mr. Nathan was transferred to Richmond Hill State Park to become the first black superintendent of a formerly white state park. The Atlanta Girl Scout Council then took over the operation of the Carver area on Lake Allatoona and what started as a Girl Scout Camp for Negroes became fully integrated as had Red Top Mountain State Park. It is now Bartow - Carver Park, operated by Bartow County.

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Alright, I have visited the next two Bartow County Natural Wonders of Georgia while we were up here seeing Red Top Mountain. We only have to write them up and add our images. Today's GNW gals are part of the younger generation that fills the coves with the houseboat parties each weekend.

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