Georgia Natural Wonder #184 - Chattahoochee/Ferries/Cochran Shoals/Powers Island.1237

[Top Row Dawg]

Georgia Natural Wonder #184 - Chattahoochee River - Ferries, Cochran Shoals and Powers Island

We did the "Ramblin Raft Race" with our last post, and that deserves to stand alone as it was a Wonder those 13 years. But today we re - float that stretch of the Chattahoochee with a focus on the present day parks and natural beauty for the Atlanta area. So beginning below Morgan Falls Dam, we have Cobb County on the right bank and Fulton County on the left bank.


From Fulton County side.


Proposed park in here.

Within a mile, there are some beautiful rocky bluffs on the left Fulton County shore.



There are rocky cliffs all along this float. I was trying to re-float it for TRD images before I posted it. Have to settle for All Trail images.



We then float past the Heard's Ferry, originally Isom's Ferry, was operated by John Heard (1835–1931). It was named for Judge John Stevens Heard, who served as a corporal in the 9th Georgia Battalion Artillery and is buried in the Heard family cemetery off Heard's Ferry Road not far from the ferry location.



Isom's Ferry was operated in the 1860s by James Isom. The ferry went by many names, include Isham's Ferry, Isham's Ford, Phillip's Ford, and Cavalry Ford. John Heard took over Isom's Ferry in 1868 and operated it until 1890 as Heard's Ferry.



John Isom, Jr. 1st Lieutenant Appointed 2nd Corporal, March 4, 1862 Private in Captain Sentell's Company, Leyden's, Artillery Battalion. This company subsequently became Company B, 9th Battalion Georgia Artillery. Age 45, Enlisted Atlanta, Ga. March 4, 1862 Under A. Leyden for 3 years or war. From March 4, to May 1, 1862 Present Acted as Corporal up to date May 1, 1862 Elected 2nd Lieutenant, May – June 1862 not stated, May 20, 1862 Bounty Paid $50, Resigned as Captain April 15, 1864 for health reasons, Captured in Berrien County, Georgia, July 16, 1864, Appeared on a Register of Prisoner of War received at Military Prison, Louisville, Kentucky. Received at military prison Louisville, Ky. Released north of the Ohio River. Took oath to US Aug 27, 1864. Complexion Dark, Hair Light, Eyes, Blue, Height 5' 7", Born in Jackson County, Georgia, in 1818. Buried in Grady County, Ga. Received a Cross of Honor from Atlanta UDC Chapter 18. Dates: 14 Dec 1818-22 Jun 1904.


Confederate Cross.

The next point of interest is Johnson Ferry. It was an important 19th-century ferry linking what is now Atlanta with much of north Georgia on the other side of the Chattahoochee River. The name Johnson is a corrupted version of the owner's name, which was really Johnston; therefore the ferry was originally called the Johnston ferry (or Johnston's ferry). A historical plaque on the present Johnson Ferry Road documents that ownership.



The marker stood at the entrance to the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area, off Johnson Ferry Road. But it was damaged in an car accident and the marker is now in its new location next to the boat ramp.



William Marion Johnston, a Georgia native born in 1817, owned the farm at that location during the Civil War and raised thirteen children by two different wives. When he died in 1879, his grave in Marietta was robbed by a janitor from the Atlanta Medical College in order to sell the cadaver to the college.


Johnson Ferry Bridge 1950.

Johnson Ferry Road — often incorrectly referred to as "Johnson's Ferry Road,"  is now a major arterial road between Cobb County and Sandy Springs. It travels northwest with various turn lanes and descends to Riverside Drive, then crosses the river, leaving the city of Sandy Springs and crossing the county line from Fulton into Cobb.


Johnson Ferry during Ramblin Raft Race.

The scenery changes from tree-lined and park-like on the Fulton side, to cut-away hillsides covered with invasive kudzu vines and naturalized mimosa trees on the Cobb County side. This is the result of the 1990s widening to six lanes plus a raised median, with no replanting done except in the median. Upon reaching Paper Mill Road, the steep climb levels off and heavier local traffic begins.


The Johnson Ferry bridge was widened from four to six lanes in 2013.

From Columns Drive on the northwest riverbank of the Chattahoochee River, southeast to Abernathy Road, and continuing east on Abernathy to Roswell Road (SR 9), the roads have been temporarily designated by GDOT as State Route 947. This is due to the heavy volume of rush hour traffic traveling this route to get to and from SR 400 and Perimeter Mall, and the failure of Cobb and Fulton counties to come to an agreement on their own, with Fulton at one time timing the traffic lights to cause further morning backups into Cobb.


From fish traps to traffic traps.

All but one of the homes along Abernathy were destroyed for widening, but the neighborhoods along the 1¼ miles or two kilometers of Johnson Ferry Road were spared. Johnson Ferry and Abernathy were "broken", such that they flow directly into each other, and now require a turn at two new intersections to stay straight on the original roads. The bridge at the former ferry location was widened between Columns Drive on the Cobb riverbank to Riverside Drive on the Fulton riverbank, from four lanes to six plus bike lanes, wide sidewalks, and a raised road median.


But this is a nature forum, so let's explore the National Recreation Area trails along the river.

The adjacent section of the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area is the Johnson Ferry unit. It runs along the Cobb side of the river, most of it northeast almost to Morgan Falls Dam, and a small section southwest along Columns Drive.

Atlanta Trails

The Johnson Ferry Trail explores a particularly scenic stretch of the Chattahoochee River in metro Atlanta. The trail explores a beautiful riverine forest on the banks of the Chattahoochee, follows a tributary creek through a rocky hardwood forest, and winds through a marshy, wildflower-filled wetland. And a side trail follows the pebble-filled Mulberry Creek to a small waterfall and an impressively large rock outcrop overhanging the creek.



It’s not the most popular trail in the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area, or the longest, highest, or most strenuous trail. So is it worth a visit? For sure. This 1.8-mile loop runs nearly-level, making it a great, short, easy day hike on the Chattahoochee River or an equally great beginner-friendly trail run. And the trail’s abundant sights and diverse landscapes make it a great nature walk with kids, too.

Johnson Ferry Trail: the hike

The adventure begins at the North Johnson Ferry Trail-head (view maps and driving directions), following a gravel road from the northeast corner of the parking area. After passing a marshy wetland on the left, the trail splits into three; this hike turns right at the split, following the narrow trail eastbound toward the Chattahoochee River.



The trail reaches the river’s banks at .2 mile, arcing northeast to follow the wide-flowing river upstream. Views of the river occasionally break through the dense forest lining the river’s banks. The hike rises gently above the river’s banks, and several trail-side benches offer views of the broad, glassy river.



The trail veers westbound at .35 mile and again at .55 mile, tracing the inlets of Arrowhead Creek and Owl Creek as they flow into the Chattahoochee River. At each of the inlets, the trail reaches a gravel road in a clearing; after crossing the channel, the hike veers right on a narrow single-track trail to return to the river’s banks. (Sections of the trail have been rerouted here in a restoration effort, so follow signs for the latest trail course.)

The hike veers left at .75 mile, departing the river’s banks and following Mulberry Creek upstream to the northwest.



Mulberry Creek flows and tumbles over a rocky bed, shaded by towering, leafy hardwood trees. It’s a great hike for a mid-hike swim and splash if you’re hiking with a four-legged hiking buddy; our dog loves to play in the shallow, pebble-lined creek.



The route follows a side trail at .9 mile, continuing to follow Mulberry Creek upstream toward a small waterfall. Opposite the waterfall, Mulberry Creek slices beneath a large rock overhang, creating a cave-like precipice above the creek. The stream follows a striated bed of rock as it arcs through the forest.



The hike backpacks to the main trail, turning right on the main loop and hiking southwest. The trail passes patches of marshy wetland, frequented by wildlife and spotted with wildflowers. The trail crosses a wooden bridge at 1.45 miles before veering southeast at 1.6 miles, crossing a wooden boardwalk and bridge over a boggy marsh. Frogs croak loudly in warm-weather months, and small fish swim in the sunlight-warmed shallows.



The hike reaches the trailhead spur trail at 1.65 miles, turning right to hike southbound to the trailhead. The hike reaches the Johnson Ferry Park trailhead at 1.8 miles, completing the adventure.

Cochran Shoals

Below Johnson Ferry, Sope Creek comes down from the Cobb County side GNW #142. Then we come to Cochran Shoals as we approach I-285. Wide, abundant river views. Wildlife-filled marsh and grasslands. And broad, level gravel trails perfect for pounding out the miles in a pair of running shoes, and great for a scenic stroll on the banks of the wide-flowing Chattahoochee River. With mile after mile of photo-worthy sights and prime running trails, it’s no wonder that Cochran Shoals draws weekend crowds of runners, hikers and mountain bikers by the hundreds.



Cochran Shoals is one of the most popular parks in metro Atlanta’s Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area. Located just north of Atlanta’s I-285 perimeter, this riverside park offers more than four miles of wide, level, gravel trails that fill with weekend packs of runners, walkers and mountain bikers.



Along the trails, the Chattahoochee River flows wide and picturesque, punctuated by angular rock shoals and shadowed by abundant waterfowl soaring in the blue skies above.


There is this main Rock formation.


Good for climbing? Better check National Park Service.


Your Tax Dollars at work.

Cochran Shoals Trail: the run

The run departs from the park’s southern trailhead on Interstate North Parkway (view maps and driving directions). The trail travels through wonderfully varied terrain, including wetlands, river banks, grasslands and forest as it runs north along the western bank of the Chattahoochee River.


The trail follows the river, catching view after view of the river’s scenic, angular rock shoals throughout the run’s first half.


A boardwalk trail departs to the left at .6 mile; make a detour here to explore a grassy wetland, with prime spots along the boardwalk to view the wetland’s wildlife.

The run reaches the Columns Drive parking area at 1.6 miles, looping southwest and climbing a very gradual hill. A side trail departs trail right at 1.75 miles, offering a connection to the nearby hiking and biking trails and Civil War paper mill ruins at Sope Creek, a nearby park.



The trail continues southbound and crosses through a wide, cleared grassland and marsh. The trail crosses a Chattahoochee River tributary creek via a bridge at 2 miles. Veering southeast, the run explores a marshy grassland; watch for fish-hunting waterfowl along the sides of the trail, and groups of turtles basking on fallen logs in the marsh’s abundant sunlight.



Reaching the banks of the Chattahoochee River, the run finishes out the trail’s loop portion and hangs a right. The trail reaches the southern Cochran Shoals trailhead at 3.1 miles, completing the 5k run.

Powers Island

The Powers Island Trail is one of the lesser-traveled trails of Atlanta’s Chattahoochee National Recreation Area. Serene and sometimes deserted, this quiet hiking and running trail loops through a beautiful riverside forest. The trail explores an island, an inlet, and the banks of the shoaling Chattahoochee River on a 2.5-mile trail loop near Vinings.



It’s the “other” trail at the Chattahoochee’s angular, whitewater-filled Cochran Shoals. And yes, it’s more than just overflow parking for its exceptionally popular trail neighbor, the Cochran Shoals Trail. In contrast to the broad trails at Cochran Shoals, the width of this trail is comparatively tight – so it’s perfect for small hiking groups or single-file trail runs.



And it’s arguably more scenic than the trail across the river – though it’s slightly more challenging, with a mid-trail climb to a riverside ridge.



Powers Island Trail: the hike

The adventure begins at the signed trailhead southern perimeter of the parking area (view maps and driving directions). The route catches the best Chattahoochee River views early in the hike, crossing a metal bridge and setting foot on Powers Island, and hiking west toward the wide, shoaling Chattahoochee River. The island’s name shares roots with the nearby Powers Ferry Road: James Powers operated a ferry from the island during the early 1800s, providing access across the wide, whitewater-filled Chattahoochee River.



The trail meets the river’s banks at a kayak and canoe takeout and swings northwest, following the river’s banks and hiking through a densely vegetated forest. The trail reaches the northern tip of the island, looping southeast to trace a shallow, smooth flowing inlet back toward the bridge.



The trail’s island loop completes at .7 mile, reaching and crossing the bridge. The hike crosses the parking area, departing from the park’s northeast trailhead. The trail runs an old gravel roadbed, hiking through a forest studded with large rock outcrops and old stacked-stone walls.



The route follows a number of trails on the river’s shore. Two parallel trails follow the contours of the Chattahoochee River, offering wide-open river views after passing the island at 1 mile. Hike side trails, departing on the trail’s left, for the best views.



The trail crosses through a bamboo thicket before reaching the park’s northern boundary at 1.3 miles, turning to retrace the hike southbound. The route veers left on the return hike to follow a loop, grabbing elevation on a nearby ridge. The loop hikes through an ivy and vine-filled deciduous forest, where wildflowers and mushrooms stretch to reach sunlight in warm summertime months.



On the ridge crest, old stacked-stone retaining walls terrace the forest, now covered in thick tendrils of emerald ivy.



Powers Ferry

The Powers Ferry (originally spelled Power's Ferry) was another route northwest from Atlanta, upstream from Pace's Ferry. It is named for James Power (1790–1870),a plantation owner, who established this Chattahoochee River ferry in 1835, before Atlanta was founded. The ferry remained in service for nearly 70 years, until a bridge was built in 1903. Union Army soldiers used the ferry crossing in 1864, during the Atlanta Campaign of the Civil War.


From Ferry location looking north to Cochran Shoals.

The exact location of the ferry is now the northeastern most crossing of Interstate 285 over the river; and it is the Fulton-Cobb county line (now the Sandy Springs city limit). The interstate carries several lanes of traffic in each direction (it had two each way when it opened in 1969). A Powers Island is in the river, now designated as a hiking area associated with the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area. Presumably, James Power's ferry was located in the vicinity of this island.


I-285.

The perimeter highway (I-285) is flanked on its north side by Interstate North Parkway (west) / River-edge Parkway (east), and on its south side by the ferry's namesake road, each carrying two lanes (one in each direction). Powers Ferry Road runs through Cobb and Fulton counties, terminating at both ends at two different streets named Roswell Road (SR 120 and SR 9, respectively).



The business district just east of the crossing is called Powers Ferry Landing, located where Northside Drive crosses the road, just east of the former landing. This provides freeway access at Northside Drive (west ramps) and New Northside Drive (east ramps, road and ramps built in a 1990s reconstruction). Signage on the freeway indicates Powers Ferry Road, Northside Drive, and New Northside Drive.


It's fantastic that there can be a paddling venue in the midst of Atlanta. This is also a popular area for rafters, which probably explains the steps down to the river. The kayak slalom course shown is on the east side of the Powers Island put in.

Well that is the first half of the Ramblin Raft Race Course. We cover the second half of the race in our next post, the section south of I-285. We have stumbled on a cornucopia of Hoochie Georgia Natural Wonder Gals as we continue to explore the Hooch in Atlanta.