Georgia Natural Wonder #16 - Chattooga Wild and Scenic River Section 0 - I. 924

[Top Row Dawg]

Georgia Natural Wonder #16 - Chattooga Wild and Scenic River Section 0-I

This is just too much to cover this Natural Wonder in one post. So I am covering today all the upper approaches from the Georgia side.  I found some new American Whitewater discussions as an addendum to my original post. We touch on other falls in the area. I come back to the main river to get ready for Section II starting tomorrow. Born in springs and rivulets high on the south side of Whiteside Mountain, near Cashiers, NC, the Chattooga River flows some 50 miles south-southwest forming the border between Georgia and South Carolina, ending at Lake Tugaloo, dropping from 3,000 feet to 950 feet. From there, water flows into the Tugaloo River, on into Lake Hartwell, joins with Lake Keowee and flows south to the ocean as the Savannah River. The "Chattooga" spelling was approved by the US Board on Geographic Names in 1897. The Chattooga was used as a setting for the fictional Cahulawassee River in the book and film Deliverance. Known as the "Crown Jewel" of the southeast, the Chattooga was the first river east of the Mississippi to be granted the Wild & Scenic designation, and is still the only one that is commercially rafted.


TRD gets a mouthful in front of his raft.

The Chattooga River serves as part of the boundary between Georgia and South Carolina near latitude 35°N. The Chattooga River was not the original boundary line between South Carolina and Georgia. A treaty of 1816 extended the South Carolina boundary to its current location. Prior to 1816, the Chattooga was on the lands of the Cherokee Indian Nation.



The Blue Ridge Mountains, where the Chattooga starts, are considered to be ancient, even by geological standards. The rock is mostly granite. Geologists believe that the Chattooga may have made one direction change during its life. Originally, it probably flowed southwesterly into the Chattahoochee riverbed and on to the Gulf of Mexico, but at some point, the Savannah River eroded its northern headland until it intersected the Chattooga and diverted it to the Atlantic. Over the course of a mere fifty miles the river descends some 2500 feet in elevation making the Chattooga a whitewater wonderland.



Today the forces of nature are still at work changing and shaping the Chattooga. Many of the rocks in the riverbed probably fell from the ridge through erosion and those rocks do not necessarily remain where they fall. In times of great downpours, high water and fast currents, rocks can become dislodged and move downstream taking other rocks and debris with them. During Hurricane Ivan in 2004, the wind force and waters knocked down big boulders off the sides. The hurricane released enough water in the Chattooga watershed to bring the river to its highest recorded flow rate, around 28,000 cubic feet per second, rivaling the typical flow of the Grand Canyon.



Since May 10, 1974, the Chattooga River has been protected along a 15,432-acre corridor as a national Wild and Scenic River when it was determined the Chattooga should be maintained in its natural state for the use and pleasure of current and future generations since there were so few beautiful, untouched rivers left, particularly in the Southeast. Under the management of the U.S. Forest Service, the area is strictly monitored and regulated to ensure its continuance as a place of natural beauty.



39.8 miles of the river have been designated “wild”, about 2.5 miles “scenic”, and 14.6 miles “recreational” for a total of about 57 miles. On the commercially rafted sections (III and IV) there is a 1/4 mile protected corridor of National Forest on both sides of the river, allowing no roads to the river or development of any kind. There are a few areas on the river where access has been made more accessible on Section III, but much of Section IV is fairly remote.



The Chattooga also bisects the Ellicott Rock Wilderness which straddles three states (Georgia, North Carolina and South Carolina) and three National Forests (the Chattahoochee, Nantahala and Sumter National Forests). Much of the Georgia portion of the river is within the Chattooga River Ranger District of the Chattahoochee National Forest.


Ellicott Rock.

The river is split into three forks. The Chattooga River is the main fork, running along the state line. The East Fork Chattooga River (sometimes East Prong Chattooga River) runs in from Jackson County, North Carolina and then Oconee County, South Carolina, and is 7.4 miles long. The West Fork Chattooga River (variant name Gumekoloke Creek) runs 6.0 miles in from Rabun County, Georgia, and is also a variant name for that county's Holcomb Creek, one of its own tributaries. For today we are going to explore the headwaters of this Natural Wonder focusing first on the West Fork Chattooga River. We start in Clayton Georgia in the shadow of Black Rock Mountain State Park GNW #89 (Where we camp for hikes this part of state).



From US 441 in Clayton where US 76 turns west, turn east onto paved Warwoman Road; once on Warwoman, turn right (not hard right) at the stop sign; proceed past the Georgia Power building; follow Warwoman Road for about 16 miles to the intersection with Overflow Creek Road (FS 86). We start at the highest reaches of Holcomb Creek. The trail can be accessed at the intersection of Hale Ridge Road (FS 7) and Overflow Road (FS 86). The first trail head is located across from the intersection, and is marked with a blue band around a tree and a rock engraved with Holcomb Creek Trail. Parking is limited at this location.


Our GNW gal for today. Not a raving beauty but she gets character points for being on site at today's GNW.

The 1.75 mile loop trail leads first to the 120-foot Holcomb Creek Falls.



The trail then goes to Ammons Creek Falls where there is an observation deck.



The West Fork of the Chattooga River begins at Three Forks, the intersection of Holcomb, Overflow, and Big creeks. The intersection divides the forest landscape into four neat quadrants and rewards determined hikers with the light, sound, and color of one of the most delightful scenes in Georgia. Anyway, I now invite you to a secluded corner of the North Georgia mountains. Come on along with me as I discover the Three Forks. From the first hike you go back toward War Woman Road on FS 86, but just to make sure I don't get you lost, here are the directions from Clayton exactly. Take War woman Road east from Clayton for 16 miles to Overflow Creek Road (FS 86); turn left (northwest) and go 4 miles to John Teague Gap.The 1.5 mile route to the Forks begins with a brief climb over the crest of the wooded ridge and then a long gradual descent to the river valley below. The trail was easy to follow but it was obvious from a few overgrown sections that it isn't the most heavily used foot path in Chattahoochee National Forest. Once the trail reaches the bottom of the ridge and begins to level out (around a mile in) an obvious path splits left down a shallow gully surrounded by rhododendron. After turning onto the spur trail it only took another couple minutes of downhill walking before the trail almost literally dumped me out into Holcomb Creek. This is a fascinating spot. Just ahead and upstream is a small but pretty multi-tiered cascade. Downstream, Holcomb Creek is compressed to a width of little more than a couple feet as it plunges into a narrow slot canyon at least 20-feet deep.


Looking up the slot canyon from halfway.

At this point the trail seems to abruptly end and, if the following route description sounds a bit rugged to you, it is indeed a suitably scenic end. I was here to see the Three Forks however, so I'd be pressing on. From here the route would get steep, overgrown, and a bit hard to follow. The first order of business is to safely get across Holcomb Creek. If the water is up, don't attempt it. Even if the water is low tread carefully, a fall will send you careening down into the slot canyon I described earlier. The narrow unmarked path to the Forks begins across the stream, at a point just above the slot canyon, by climbing a steep bank underneath some overhanging rhododendron branches. Hopefully, as when I visited, you'll be able to pick up a faint path heading downstream at this point. The first tenth of a mile or so the goat path follows along and above Holcomb Creek climbing some. Then things get interesting. The trail begins to drop...moderately at first but before long you may find yourself grabbing for surrounding branches. At one point there is about a 10-foot ledge to carefully slide/scramble your way down. At the bottom you'll find yourself once again along Holcomb Creek. Just pick one of the myriad of trails here which cross through and around a nearby campsite to the banks of the West Fork Chattooga River and the Three Forks. A handy overhanging boulder was a great spot from which to take in the scene. Upstream Overflow Creek came in from the left and it's pretty waterfall tumbled in from the right.



Behind me the waters of Holcomb Creek also were making their drop into the river. These next three images are TRD at the site. My daughters still remember me traumatizing them walking under this fall.



Downstream, the three forks now joined as one, I could watch the impressive Chattooga disappearing into a gorge surrounded by high rock walls. Needless to say, it was an amazing spot and one I enjoyed an extended period of time at trying to take it all in.



So, joy of joys, the mysterious Three Forks actually exists and I've now had the privilege of visiting them. Afterwards, I was informed by a fellow hiker that there are no less than 10 waterfalls in the immediate area on the streams which feed into the Forks. That and the gorge reportedly sports a fabulous wildflower display in the springtime. A return trip might definitely be a necessity in the near future! Here my girls dried out looking up Big Creek.



From there the West Fork flows 7 miles to the southeast to meet with the Chattooga. The entire West Fork, plus 1 mile upstream along Overflow Creek, is included within the boundaries of the Chattooga National Wild and Scenic River. The upper portion of the West Fork is one of the most beautiful river sites in Georgia—a river of low falls and deep green pools hemmed in by bluffs and steep forested slopes. This section is technically known as Section 1 of the Chattooga by the Forest Service. Most boaters refer to this section as the West Fork.



The put in is below the Overflow Road Bridge and the takeout is the Highway 28 Access (put in for Section 2) on the main stem of the Chattooga about 1 mile below the confluence on river left. From Overflow Creek Road bridge down to the junction with the Chattooga, the river is relatively calm with long, deep pools ideal for lazy floating or swimming. Fine picnic and strolling sites are accessible and reached by road.



The West Fork is also an area rich in mining lore. The ultrabasic deposits along the lower river below Pine Mountain have yielded asbestos and soapstone and were the site of Georgia's most famous corundum mine at Laurel Creek. Most maps show that Laurel Creek, Reed Creek, and Warwoman Valley form one of north Georgia's most remarkable geologic features, a straight line or lineament, the "Warwoman Shear," that continues to control topography as far west as Tray Mountain. My daughters pose.



War Woman Dell Falls.



On your way back to Clayton you can visit two smaller falls. From Clayton, take Warwoman Road east for 2.8 miles. There will be a small pull off on the left you can park on or you can park at the Warwoman Dell picnic area and follow the trail past the old CCC trout raising basins. There is a small sign showing where the Bartram Trail crosses the road near the turn. Follow the trail on the right side of Becky Branch for about 200 yards to the base of the Becky Branch Falls.



Continue east on the trail for 1.8 miles to reach Martin Creek Falls. I made this hike years ago.



My son was able to scramble to a spot behind the falls.



One of the largest Georgia tributaries in the Chattooga basin that flows mainly through private lands is Stekoa Creek, which flows primarily southeast for approximately 18 miles from its headwaters in Mountain City, Georgia, through Clayton, Georgia, to its mouth at the Chattooga River. This is destined to be a future GNW.  Stekoa Creek has been the single greatest threat to the Chattooga's water quality for over 40 years, due primarily to raw sewage leaking from the City of Clayton, GA's old sewage collection system, storm drains overflowing, sediment-laden runoff, poor agricultural practices, failing septic systems, and dumping from apathetic individuals. The Chattooga Conservancy, a non-profit organization dedicated to the protection, promotion and restoration of the Chattooga River watershed, has made the neglected issue of improving water quality in Stekoa Creek a top priority. The Stekoa Creek Basin is approximately 45 square miles in size.


The Plunge on the Stekoa River.

All boaters on Chattooga Section IV have seen spectacular Stekoa creek as it plummets several hundred feet into the main river above Stekoa Shoals Rapid. A few may have even wondered if the creek, which is one of the largest streams in the Chattooga drainage, is runnable. If they ever saw Stekoa Falls, a half mile before entering Clayton,it is unlikely they would put in for fear of similar drops in the steep-walled gorges below. Even serious hair boaters cringe when they first see Stekoa falls.


It's even harder to paddle upstream here.

The Chattooga headwaters start near Cashiers as a small stream, but once it passes Ellicott Rock it touches on Georgia and qualifies mention in this section on the upper Chattooga River. You know what, the hell with that, this is an addendum to the original post. Even though this may technically North Carolina, I am going to include this American Whitewater description and photos of the float from Chattooga Cliffs - Grimshawes Bridge to Bull Pen Bridge (AKA Section 00).You reach the put in after a 1 mile up and down hill hike to the confluence of Green Creek and the Chattooga.  Start on Chattooga trail and hike 3/4 mile.  When you see a piece of large cable on the right side of the trail go 100 yards further and look for Green Creek trail to left going downhill beside a small water seep/stream.  If you get the wooden handrail you went too far.



First Falls (Class IV, Mile 0.3)


Slide drop between two holes

Approximately 2 miles downstream of the Green Creek put-in, a river-wide logjam formed around two large boulders that created three narrow channels. The log jam appears to be from old floods and appears to function as a strainer for most floating debris coming down upper reaches.


Two large boulders catch all the logs headed down the river. A must portage. The best route is to the left. Be careful of shifting logs. These trees are big enough to break a leg or worse if they move and they are stacked like pickup sticks.

A small ledge defines the beginning of the whitewater immediately downstream of the logjam that continues approximately 1.2 miles down to Bull Pen Bridge. The next 2/3-mile has the most difficult rapids.

Separation Falls (Class IV+, Mile 0.6)


Narrow turbulent drop into a pothole lined gorge, long runout and setting safety not possible for entire drop.

Potholes Left, Logs Right (Class IV+, Mile 0.9)


Easy line with a lot of hazard. The obvious line is left but this leads into a pothole that feeds a pinch point. The actual line is farther right beside the large rock. The line was right beside a partially submerged log on our trip.

Beauty and Beast (Class IV+, Mile 0.9)


Long approach into last alleyway. Initial approach relatively easy but a must catch eddy before a fast chute feeding into a strainer with a thin line on the left.

Beast (Class IV+, Mile 1.0)


Sieve with thin line on left. Easy portage on bedrock around left side.  Often holds wood, no eddy above.  Scout from above Beauty.

The river enters a narrow canyon defined by steep rocky cliffs overhung above by dense vegetation. The rapids are close together, constricted and easy to approach and scout at this flow.

Alleyway (Class N/A, Mile 1.0)


Tight alleyway that ends in sieve rapid. No vegetation grows by the river due to stripping during large floods.  Portage Sieve Rapid on the right over the large rock being carefull of the surrounding undercuts and siphons.

Whoa Nellie! (aka Sieve Rapid) (Class 5.1, Mile 1.1)


Holy shit, you can see why I added this as an addendum to original post.This drop is not runnable at low water and is very difficult to portage at high water. At low water the entire river goes under the rocks on river right. At high water a large hole forms at the bottom. 

The rapids are generally Class IV or V-, with one difficult sieve that may be boatable at higher flows.  Strainers and sieves are common on this reach and a portage or two can be expected.  After "the Sieve" the river mellows to Class III-IV the last mile to the bridge.  The run required 2.5 hours for a 4 mile trip.

Crease Boof (Class IV+, Mile 1.2)


Angled ledge with potholes and undercut rock on right side but clear line down left.  A log is wedged in the veil parallel to the drop.  Whoa Nellie! can be seen in the background at an unrunable low level.

Sunbathers Drop (Class III+, Mile 1.3)

Down the middle, watch for hidden wood

Wakeup Ledge (Class IV, Mile 1.8)

Blind ledge with line on left

Bull Pen Rapid (Class 5.0, Mile 2.0)


This run is about the unique river features and closed in feel of the river.  It is a lot of work for the few rapids and would be visited to experience an almost primordial sense of the river. 

Now the rules for rafting the Chattooga are complex. Evidently you are not suppose to float this part of the creek above Hwy 28. One of the  reviewers said they were scouting the river up there when a ranger drove up to warn us that boating above Hwy 28 was illegal, and that he drove around on rain/high water days looking to bust boaters doing such. Said the fine for 1st offense would be $150 ($75 for boating above Hwy 28 + $75 for not filling out a permit).

OK, now back to original post.

The upper Chattooga River above Bull Pen Road harbors some of the river's most scenic and rugged stretches. Closed to boats, the area must be reached by foot. This section of the river is known for the steep, remote Chattooga Cliffs and for a small gorge area called the Upper Narrows. Both areas can be reached from the Bull Pen Road Bridge, known locally as the "metal" or "government" bridge. It is recommended that the hiker have a car waiting at the bridge before beginning the walk upstream. Major access points are Bull Pen Road and primitive roads off Whiteside Cove Road. Both Bull Pen Road and Whiteside Cove Road are gravel and accessible by car. Along this stretch the Chattooga is narrow and wild. Farther upriver, the grade is relatively flat, but the adjacent cliffs and overhangs provide constant interest. Here the rare Biltmore sedge, a northern club moss, and forests of giant mountain laurel up to 30 feet tall are present at the base of the cliffs.





Farther downstream one reaches the Upper Narrows, where the rushing water is compressed into a stream about 6 feet wide. Only the most skilled rock climber can maneuver through the gorge. For a safer route, it is recommended that the hiker walk the gorge's edge.



Downstream from the Upper Narrows, a loop trail is reached. This trail consists of a lower and upper section. The lower section affords good views of the boulder-strewn gorge which is found just upstream from the Bull Pen Road Bridge. Car-sized boulders and unusual potholes are present, as well as several nice swimming pools.



THE CHATTOOGA HEADWATERS FROM GA 28, BURRELL'S FORD BRIDGE TO RUSSELL BRIDGE. (Section I)

Unlike some parts of the river, this section is relatively accessible. While the river itself is not constant whitewater, areas are breathtakingly wild and scenic. The area between the Big Bend and Lick Log Falls is a challenge for the most intrepid fisherman, since there are no riverside trails. Crossing the river back and forth is essential and is risky in winter and spring high water. The wild isolation of the Rock Gorge really something.



The magnificence of the Big Bend Falls makes the hike worthwhile.


This waterfall is one of the largest drops on the river. Lines exist on the far right and left but the consequences of missing are large. In an emergency there is a trail head just upstream from the falls at the right bend in the river that goes up to the Big Bend road.

This will be another addendum to the original post as American Whitewater continues to take us down this section. I missed all these rapids the first time around. This is a hike only section now for most of the year. This Section I run is the best scenic run on the Chattooga.  The moss covered rock cliffs along the sides, relatively open vistas from the water, and relaxed nature of the trip makes this a wonderful way to spend the day on the water.  The rapids are all significant so its a long flatwater trip if you don't have Class V skills. After Big Bend you encounter the following rapids.

Rock-in the-Hole-in the-Wall (Class IV+, Mile 4.5)


Significant drop signaled by a rocky slide upstream. A rock resides in the middle of the hole in the bottom of the drop. Run to either edge of the hole.

Maytag (Class 5.0, Mile 5.2)


Drop into a large hole that is backed up by a rock that intensifies hole quickly with higher water. Trees tend to hang up here. There is an alternate route down river right if needed.

Harvey Wallbanger (Class IV, Mile 5.6)


Converging water feeds into rock wall on left shore.

Upper Big Hairy Bastard (Class IV, Mile 5.8)


Blind approach into slide.

Lower Big Hairy Bastard (Class IV, Mile 5.9)

Boulder garden rapid with hidden holes

Lick Log Creek Trail (Class N/A, Mile 7.4)



You have to take out here on this section.

28 Bridge (Class N/A, Mile 11.3)

This should be the take out except for an arbitrary decision by the Forest Service to protect a heavily stocked artificial trout park on the last two miles of this reach.  Boating is banned on this reach with no justification.

Back to original post.

For easy hiking and fishing, the section of the Chattooga between Russell Bridge and Reed Creek is hard to beat, for there is a trail (or log road) on either side. This is our third tributary from the Georgia side. At the north side of the Russell Bridge, one looks out over a marsh with ponds and wood-duck boxes. This was the old Whitmire place, formerly a fertile cornfield. When it was acquired by the Forest Service, beavers promptly dammed up Mose Branch, creating a marsh dominated by alder shrub, sedges, and marsh grasses. One can go up the river by climbing down the bridge riprap or, more easily but less speedily, by taking the (gated) first road that turns off west of the bridge. About a mile up this road (1.75 miles by river) are some beautiful pools and camping places.


Cascades along Reed Creek.

Farther on there is an old field, called Reed Creek Bottoms, planted in lob lolly pine, which is rare in the mountains unless planted. Here one can turn up a trail on the west side of the field that leads up Reed Creek. Soon there will appear one of the most beautiful stands of white pine in north Georgia, with abundant patches of club moss and pink lady slippers. Farther on one enters Reed Creek Gorge. There are no trails in this section. The cascades, falls, and pools are extremely scenic and not too difficult to negotiate. With luck the visitor will see the highest of the falls, The photographer said this was a tricky hike to Reed Creek Falls and he only made it to Lower Reed Creek Falls.


Lower Reed Creek Falls. Hell I may have to hike this as a future Georgia Natural Wonder. Can't find image of Upper Reed Creek Falls anywhere.

On the main river above Reed Creek there is more entrancing scenery, especially beginning at Lick Log Falls. On the approach to the gorge of Lick Log Creek, one may see the beautiful mountain camellia, whose large, white blossoms appear in late summer. This is a plant found in stream side zones and on most bluffs. It is difficult to negotiate the gorge , even with nonslip shoe soles. This can be a dangerous section. Towering cliffs appear, and the only way out is at least 1 mile farther upstream, reached by wading and rock hopping. Lick Log Falls is technically on the South Carolina side of the river.


Lick Log Falls.

OK. We have explored all the Georgia related headwaters West Fork - Stekoa Creek - Reed Creek - and we have now made addendum's to some evidently illegal rafting of the now forbidden sections of the Chattooga including some in North Carolina, with a side trip to Lick Log Falls in South Carolina. Now we are on the main Chattooga River at Hwy. 28 (Russell Bridge). Tomorrow we explore further downstream to Georgia Natural Wonder #17 Section II and III of the Chattooga River.

Reprieve of today's GNW Gal.