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Georgia Natural Wonder #185 - Chattahoochee River - Palisades. 1,214
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Georgia Natural Wonder #185 - Chattahoochee River - Palisades

We floated the Ramblin Raft Race, and we explored in more detail the first half of that float, with our last two post. Today we explore and float the wonderful area inside the perimeter highway down to the take out on Northside Drive.

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This is the Palisades section of the Chattahoochee River.

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There are two parks in the Palisades segment of the Chattahoochee River National Recreation Area. The East Palisades Trail hikes the lesser-frequented eastern banks of the river, exploring high-elevation overlooks, historic ruins, and a bamboo forest on a network of over 4 miles of hiking and running trails. The other – West Palisades at Paces Mill Park – follows the western banks of the Chattahoochee on over 3 miles of paved walking and running trails.

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View of East Palisades from the West Palisades Trail.

West Palisades

The West Palisades Trail is on the west bank in Cobb County. It explores the scenic Paces Mill Park near Vinings, one of the Chattahoochee River’s most popular recreation areas in metro Atlanta.

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The park’s broad network of running, walking and biking trails include the West Palisades Trail, Bob Callan Trail and Rottenwood Creek Trail. They follow a paved path through a wooded forest and explore riverine ecosystems that are great for spotting wildlife.

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This paved trail adventure follows the broad, grand Chattahoochee River before swinging to follow Rottenwood Creek upstream to a small waterfall at the trail’s end.

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It’s equally great for a sunny afternoon stroll, an early morning wildlife-spotting adventure.

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It's a moderately hilly running workout, and offers some of the river’s best views in the metro area.

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However you adventure, please remember to pack out everything you’ve packed in, and to leave no trace to help preserve the park’s natural beauty.

Paces Mill Park on the West Palisades Trail: the run

The adventure departs from the West Palisades Trailhead at Paces Mill Park near Vinings (view maps and driving directions), traveling northeast and following the Chattahoochee River’s banks. The river’s banks and rocky shoals are prime habitats for wildlife, including deer, geese, and heron.

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The trail passes under a highway overpass at just over .5 mile. The highway’s enormous concrete supports tower cathedral-like over the wide, smooth-flowing river, a juxtaposition of nature and urban infrastructure. Views of the Chattahoochee River open wide after the trail ducks out from under the towering overpass, and the river’s flow is often glassy and reflective in this stretch.

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The trail crosses a bridge spanning Rottenwood Creek before arcing northwest. Several dirt side trails depart on trail right, diving into the forest along the river’s banks. This stretch of the West Palisades is remote, and makes for a great trail run or fantastic urban hike up to Akers Drive.

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Rotten with sewer pipes and plastic bottles.

Rottenwood Creek (also spelled "Rotten Wood Creek") is a stream in Cobb County and is a tributary to the Chattahoochee River. Rottenwood Creek was named for Rotten Wood, a local Cherokee Indian. Oh my gosh there is American Whitewater and a trail on Rottenwood Creek, looks worthy of a separate wonder.

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The paved trail arcs to the northwest, following the contours of the tumbling Rottenwood Creek on the left. The trail crosses a wooden boardwalk and then crosses the creek via a large wood and metal bridge. Several side trails depart on the trail’s right, offering access to the creekbed, a popular swimming hole for dogs.

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The path meanders through switchbacks, beginning a steep climb towards Akers Mill Road.

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Will explore in our next wonder.

Rottenwood Creek drops far below the trail to the right. The trail levels after a steady climb, crossing Rottenwood Creek over an elevated bridge.

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A small waterfall cascades over large boulders below the bridge, shaded by a towering highway bridge.

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From here, this adventure on the West Palisades Trail doubles back to Paces Mill park, retracing its outbound steps the trailhead. The return run is almost all downhill, descending along Rottenwood Creek to the banks of the Chattahoochee River, and then running nearly level to return to the trailhead. The run reaches the parking area at 3.6 miles, finishing the adventure.

East Pallisades

The East Palisades Trail hikes the Chattahoochee River’s Palisades section, one of the river’s most scenic in metro Atlanta. Frequented by kayakers for its Class 1 and Class 2 whitewater rapids, the Palisades are marked by visually striking, sharply angular rock slabs that punctuate the river’s wide flow.

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Head to the East Palisades for a great in-town hike or trail run – and don’t forget your hammock: it’s one of our favorite places to hammock in Atlanta. The park’s weaving and winding network of trails can be confusing, but nearly every trail intersection is signed with a trail map. It’s still relatively easy to get turned around, though, so if you go, we’d highly recommend running a GPS app to help keep you headed in the right direction. And have fun: it’s is easily one of the best hikes in metro Atlanta.

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East Palisades Trail: the hike

The hike (or trail run) departs from the Indian Trail trailhead (view driving directions) in a continual southwest descent toward the Chattahoochee River. The sound of the Chattahoochee’s rushing whitewater shoals becomes audible as the trail approaches the river and the trail begins to follow Long Island Creek, a small tributary.

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The trail traces Long Island Creek’s sharp meanders and broad sandy banks before meeting the Chattahoochee River.

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At the river, the trail turns right, following the grand, wide-flowing river upstream.

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The trail hikes north, crossing a wooden bridge over Charlie’s Trapping Creek before turning right at the first trail intersection.

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The trail changes terrain quickly, grabbing elevation and switching back in an ascent to a tall bluff overlooking the Chattahoochee.

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Views from the platform perched on the cliff are outstanding, stretching upriver across the angular shoals of the Palisades.

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TRD found this image of daughters and Otis back in 1990's. Dog's today enjoy spot too.

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The trail meanders through a series signed intersections, beginning a northward descent toward Cabin Creek, crossing Cabin Creek and turning west to follow the creek downstream to the Chattahoochee River. Angular shoals dominate the Chattahoochee’s riverbed here, and a small stone building lies in ruins just south of where the trail meets the river.

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The trail turns north, hiking across an old stone bridge spanning Cabin Creek and passing several large rock outcrops as it follows the Chattahoochee upstream.

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The route crosses a small creek before diving through a grove of 30-foot tall, towering bamboo stalks.

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Meandering through the bamboo forest’s hollow trunks that knock musically in the wind.

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Savoy Brown is waiting In the Bamboo Grove.

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Bamboo Grove.

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Thought I read somewhere they cut this out, invasive species.

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More Bamboo.

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Departing the bamboo grove, the trail continues north to scale a large bluff overlooking the Chattahoochee.

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The rock outcrop is steeply pitched and demands a careful climb – but rewards with a fantastic view of the Chattahoochee River and the opposite banks below.

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The adventure turns here, descending the bluff and retracing the outbound hike to the trailhead.

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After ascending the through the switchbacks south of Cabin Creek, the hike follows the signed trail intersections to Indian Trail Road, following the gravel road south to the trailhead and parking area to complete the hike.

Pace's Ferry

Pace's Ferry belonged to Hardy Pace, one of Atlanta's founders. Paces Ferry Rd. connects historic Vinings in the west, on the Chattahoochee River in Cobb County, to the western edge of Atlanta's Buckhead area in the east.

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Before Hardy Pace was the Indians. I did a big ole tangent on Hardy Pace with GNW #141.

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Harper Weekly's depiction of Howard's troops crossing Paces Ferry.

American Whitewater

River Description

Gauge: Optimal Levels: 2500 cfs and up. Optimal Playboating Levels: 5,500 to 7,500 CFS

The cement and wood stairs in the main channel at the put-in are a good gauge. If all the stairs are out of the water the river can be considered low. This usually corresponds to about 900 cfs. If you see exposed dirt below the stairs, then the river is too low. At 2000 cfs the bottom cement step is underwater. This would be a low, but not scrape level. Rafts would not be getting hung up on rocks at this level. 3 stairs underwater is about optimal. This is about 3500 cfs. At this level there is some good surfing to be found. At 5000 cfs all the rocks in the river are underwater. Lots of good side surfing holes. Short boats can get vertical. The only eddies are in the backwash of holes. If the takeout parking lot is underwater, then consider the river high. This occurs around 12,000 cfs.

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At the upper end of this range the eddies disappear but the holes get deeper, at the lower end of this range, some of the holes get shallow but the eddies are good.

Morgan Falls Dam is the primary feeder for this stretch. Release info for Morgan Falls Dam: 404-329-1455.  When Morgan Falls is releasing the water can get very cold, very quickly. Don't be surprised if the river becomes blanketed in a thick fog.Buford Dam at Lake Lanier is 40 or so miles upstream. Normal releases from Buford do not directly affect paddling levels on this section; CONTINUAL releases do. Buford Dam info number: 770-945-1466

RIVER DESCRIPTION:

At the river left put-in you have two options. Closest to the parking lot is a channel with some flat water slalom gates. A variety of Olympic caliber paddlers have practiced at these gates. The drain at the lower end of the channel is under the interstate bridge and sometimes gets temporarily jammed up with wood.  As of summer 2008 this channel was impassable.

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On the other side of Powers Island is the main channel of the Hooch. There is usually a mild current here which is good for warmup.

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Just below the put-in is the Interstate 285 bridge over the river. On river right there is a very small wave hole under the bridge which is a good place for novices to practice surfing. After this is a long stretch of flat water.

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Next up is a river wide series of small ledges. At flows over 1500 cfs the best surfing is on river left. Most of the flow goes far right through a class II chute with good eddies on both sides.

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A few hundred yards beyond, the second set of ledges is rocky with a fast chute down the middle and a number of good eddies to the sides. Known locally as the 'Devil's Racecourse', this is a very good place for novices to practice swift water ferry's and eddy's. At higher flows most of the rocks disappear underwater; follow the flow left of center. The pool on river left at the bottom of the chute is great for roll practice.

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Below the pool the river is divided by an island. Most of the water goes down the left side of the island and forms a nice wave train with a couple of surfable holes. Eddy behind the island and ferry far right across some more small islands and ledges to get to a park service picnic area, with restrooms. This is a very scenic spot and probably the best choice of lunch stop on this section; also is a good place to hike out if necessary - follow the downriver trail uphill to get back to civilization. On river left across the pool is the diving rock, obvious in the summer by the presence of locals diving into the river from the higher of the two cliffs. The lower cliff makes a fun seal launch for kayakers.

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After this the river bends to the left and goes over the third series of ledges. This set is similar to the first; most of the flow going far right, but there are plenty of alternate routes down. The abundant rocks create many small play spots. About this time the odor of sewage sometimes drifts over the river. That lovely odor comes from a vent pipe about 50 feet back in the woods on river right. There is an underground sewage line that runs next to the last half of the run on river right.

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Better the sewage in the pipes rather than the river like all the litter.

As the river takes a right bend and the I-75 bridge comes into view there will be a strong eddy with a clean eddy line on river right at medium flows.

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Under I-75.

This is a great play spot for the local squirt boaters, and a great place to learn mystery moves.

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Gal is Working on the Night Moves.

Just above the I-75 bridge there is a large obvious rock 30 feet off the right bank of the river. I don't recommend splatting the upstream side of the rock, but it does have a great eddy line for stern squirts. Class III-IV Rottenwood Creek enters the river just below this point.

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Always portage the sewer pipe on Rottenwood Creek.

On river right just below the bridge is a little drop running right to left that may have some wood in it but is otherwise fun to run. From this point down to the takeout, look for many more small surfing ledges at normal water. The river starts fording out, getting more shallow and gravelly.

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Good spot for dogs to run.

The takeout is on the right about a half mile past the I-75 bridge. You can spot the end of the concrete boat launch from a few hundred yards upriver, sticking out of the trees.

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Put - In
Distance: 0 mi

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Bridge Hole
Class: II+Distance: 0.25 mi

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Surprisingly not a lot of images running this section of river found this morning from Internet. Caption of this found image states "This is about as wild as it gets on the Hooch"

Located on far river right below the Powers Ferry bridge.  This is one of the best holes for spins, cartwheels and loops on the river at lower play boating levels.  The hole is a dry rock below 3,000 CFS, but up to about 7,000 CFS it is an excellent play hole. Over 7,000 it is more of a wave.

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Looking for that confounded Ledge.

First Ledge
Class: II+Distance: 0.6 mi

First Set of Ledges. Above 2000 cfs the best surfing is on river left.

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You really have to go to Columbus to find some serious whitewater rafting on the Hooch. GNW #59

Well that run south of Helen was pretty good. GNW #77

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The Eddy
Distance: 0.7 mi

In the flat pool between the first and second set of ledges there's a big eddy on river right beside a sandy beach. For the squirt boaters there is a very nice seam here. Downtime is possible.

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Second Set of Ledges
Class: II+Distance: 0.75 mi

The second set of ledges. Sometimes referred to as 'The Devils Racecourse' from an old William Neely map. The main route is down the middle. Good eddies on both sides, good eddy lines for squirting. Slalom gates are sometimes hung here in the winter.For those into attainments, the upstream move here is one of the hardest on the river.

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Back gal hunkering down for tricky move.

The Island
Class: IIDistance: 1 mi

Some surfing to be found on the left side of the island at low water and some side surfing holes on the right side of the island at high flows.

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Ducks surfing.

The Dive Rock
Distance: 1.25 mi

Big Rock outcrop on river left. Lots of drunk people jumping off it during the summer.

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Folks line up for show.

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Third Set of Ledges
Class: II Distance: 1.4 mi

At high flows some surfing can be found.

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It's a freaking party out here sometimes.

The Squirt Spot
Distance: 1.75 mi

Above the next big Island there is a nice big eddy on river right, just before the river goes around a right bend. Local expert squirt boaters get up to 10 seconds of downtime here.

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For Squirt boaters who want to park and play there is the Whitewater Creek access point on River Left. The Whitewater Creek Road Parking area is on the left where Long Island Creek enters the river.

Whitewater Creek Access
Distance: 1.8 mi

Parking area and access, river left.

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The Big Rock
Distance: 2.5 mi

As you come around the last bend in the river and the I-75 bridge comes into view there will be a Volkswagen sized rock on river right.

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I-75 in distance.

There are strong eddy lines on both side of the rock for squirting.

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This boulder is mildly undercut, I don't recommend splatting the upstream side.

The Take Out
Distance: 3.5 mi

Use the boat ramp on river right. If you go under Highway 41 you've gone too far.

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If you float at this level you've gone too far.

TRD Addendum

Don't forget to appreciate the trees along the hikes of today's post.

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Stop and smell the flowers. Natural Wonders of Georgia baby.

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Stop just to stop and enjoy Nature so close to Atlanta.

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Not as crowded as the Ramblin Raft Race but still pretty full on weekends.

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A Georgia Natural Wonder that deserves a higher ranking.

Speaking of ranking, we have our last group of Chattahoochee Hoochie GNW Gals to rank.

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