12-21-2023, 05:07 AM
Georgia Natural Wonder #25 - Tullulah Basin
Going from mountains to sea all week. From the Sherpa Guide……..If one had to select a national park site in Georgia, this land of gorges, waterfalls, and scenic splendor would be it.
Hunters of bear and hog have used the area for years. Only now are horseback riders and hikers discovering this watershed and its myriad trails, many of them connecting with the Appalachian Trail. There was no easy way for the early settlers to reach the remote valley called Tate City, a pastoral setting rimmed by a great northward flex of the Blue Ridge.
Tate City was once a busy corundum mining community and later a logging town with stores and churches. Now only two churches and a handful of homes remain. Most of the original mountain people who lived by subsistence agriculture are gone. The bears and perhaps even the cougar have returned.
This drive up the Tallulah's upper gorge is spectacular.
It begins at the bridge over the Coleman River. At this bridge is the trailhead for an exciting, short (less than a mile) trail up the gorge of the Coleman River through the Coleman River Scenic Area. Now almost all of today’s post is from my photo collection.
Picked up son from Athens Y Camp years ago and explored this area of Georgia before coming back home.
The Coleman River Scenic Area is described on a sign just north of the bridge. This picturesque 330 acres encompassing the lower Coleman River was dedicated in 1960 to "Ranger Nick" Nicholson following his 40 years of public service. A 1-mile-long trail passes up the gorge with its pools, cascades, and shoals.
Some large examples of evergreen trees, especially hemlock, can be seen. Fraser magnolia is common and Stewartia occurs. Carolina rhododendron is unusually abundant. Between the Tallulah Campground and the Scenic Area trailhead is a mini-gorge containing the "strainer hole" which, prior to dynamiting, had a hydraulic, or "keeper," at its input which drowned several people.
Coleman River, worth a side hike. Otis, the original waterfall dog.
Now we are back to the vehicle and we continue up the major access point for the Tallulah River basin, FS 70. It follows beside the Tallulah through the 3-mile-long Rock Mountain Gorge, on the old railroad bed, which was blasted out of solid rock by the lumber company logging the valley in virgin timber days.
This lovely road crosses the Tallulah four times. The picturesque gorge has been the site of television commercials and postcard vistas.
One can picnic on the rocks or fish the pools stocked weekly with eating-size rainbow trout. In the gorge grow a number of the beautiful and rare flowering tree, the mountain camellia, or Stewartia, which blooms in June and July.
The best place to see the tree is in a stand at a wide place in the road at the extreme southern end of the Tate Branch Campground. At Line Branch Creek, one can look back, high up at the Flat Branch Falls.
As far as I got. No trail, scramble up embankment all I saw.
Soulful! This waterfall lies obscured from the masses. The entrance to the Flat Branch Falls Trail is on the south side of Bridge 4 on Tallulah River Road. To clarify, this bridge crosses the Tallulah River from southeast to northwest, or from right to left if coming from Persimmon Road. The trail begins by heading along the Tallulah River in the upstream direction from the bridge. For about 50 feet, the trail steeply scrambles up a nearly vertical slope. Other than the blowdowns, this exceedingly steep stretch is the toughest part of the hike. Even though handholds along the scramble are not plentiful, there are just enough to allow a safe passage.
Image from site that called it Soulful. I think my photos capture Fall better, can't find any other images, HOTD exclusive.
Flat Branch Falls is a very tall waterfall. In fact, the full waterfall is more than 200 feet high. I don't think that all of it is visible from the base, but at least the lower 120 feet are visible. Being a long and steep slide on a rather small stream, Flat Branch Falls is best to visit after the heavy rains of winter or spring, when the falls turns into a powerful torrent of whitewater. Even during lower flow, however, Flat Branch Falls is still very nice and scenic due to its height. The lowermost part of the slide can be photogenic under the right conditions, but cloudy skies are a necessity for quality photographs at this waterfall.
Another photo from as far as I got.
Just below the Tate Branch Campground, Charlie's Creek Road fords the river. When this road emerges on a flat near the AT, a north-turning fork leads one to the main Charlie's Creek. Across the creek and up the road a few hundred yards, there is a trail up to an amethyst mine that has produced some of the finest gem amethysts in the United States. The upper Tallulah River Basin is as scenic as it is rugged. The highest elevations are found in North Carolina on Standing Indian Mountain, elevation 5,499 feet, where the Tallulah River headwaters are located. Our next feature of this natural Wonder is Denton Creek Falls off to the right. A sheer drop easily reached about .25 mile upstream from the first ford (where the road is blocked).
Follow FS70 to the Denton Branch Rd. on the right. Drive up the right side of Denton Branch .3 miles to a primitive camping area and park here.
The trail is a fairly easy walk and well worth it.
Waterfall photography is an art I’ll never fully capture. This photo from Net blows away anything I could take.
To reach the falls cross Denton creek and follow the old roadbed upstream. At 2/10ths of a mile the road forks. Take the right fork as it turns into a path. Follow for about 800' to the base of the falls.
Otis was a good waterfall dog.
Left me here to sing his song.
This unknown fall is a 0.2 mile moderately trafficked out and back trail located near Tate City, campground. I can’t find it listed anywhere, no name, no directions. My old Mark Morrison waterfall book listed it. It was off to left while you were still in Georgia near some primitive camping spots.
It cascades over a series of rocks making this a nice mystery spot to visit. I mean your camping, might as well see every fall in the area.
The Tallulah River Road follows an old railroad bed before ending in the Southern Nantahala Wilderness and provides the only access to Tate City. Go through the small rural community of Tate “City”. Tate City is an unincorporated community in Towns County, Georgia, United States. It was founded as a mining and logging community. The community was named after one Mr. Tate, a businessperson in the local lumber industry. Tate City sits in a scenic valley along the upper Tallulah River, just south of the Georgia-North Carolina border. The community is flanked by various peaks of the Blue Ridge and Nantahala Mountains, including 4568-foot Hightower Bald, 4640-ft. Dicks Knob, and 5499-ft. Standing Indian Mountain. As of the 2010 United States Census, there were 16 people residing in the CDP. The racial makeup of the CDP was 100.0% White.
FS 70 dead ends in North Carolina. Now I want to keep this an all Georgia Natural Wonder, but I can’t let you come all the way up this basin without seeing the grand finale, High Falls (Beech Creek). Past Tate City, past the mystery falls, the Beech Creek trailhead parking is on the left – park here. The hike to the falls is difficult and about 5 miles (round-trip) in length. The Beech Creek trail starts across and back down the road a bit; start the hike there. The trail climbs steeply up the ridge through a series of switchbacks. Follow the switchbacks rather than the steep, eroded shortcut trail going straight up the mountain. The trail will crest the ridge and start descending again – steeply at one point – to reach Beech Creek.
Cross Beech Creek a few times. It may be possible to rock-hop here, or you may have to get your feet wet in higher water, and it will be impassable in a flood. Here you’re in a hemlock forest. Pick up the trail leading upstream and follow the creek. The trail merges with an old roadbed shortly; bear left. You’ll cross a few smaller tributary streams that might be dry, and then cross the creek in Bull Cove which should have water in all weather.
Entering the Cove of Bull. Hendrix was my dog on this hike.
This crossing is much larger and has a deep pool above the rock-hop area at the edge of the old road bed. On the other side of the crossing is an trail heading upstream along the creek. You can follow this a few hundred yards for a side trip to the falls in Bull Cove if you wish. Bull Cove Falls is in a beautiful little cove with a high rock wall on the left side.
Sheer cliffs of Bull Cove.
Keep hiking up the cove. Pete sunning heat of sun and rock reflecting light. March hike.
It ends right at the base of the waterfall. It's a 2 tiered falls about 40' high.
Continue along the old road bed, passing a rusty old gate. The road descends to the creek and crosses it a second time. After this, the trail begins climbing steeply and relentlessly with the scenic creek on the right.
During very wet weather, a few side streams may form small waterfalls on the left.
Down to the right, there are countless cascades and small waterfalls on Beech Creek.
Throughout the ascent, the trail crosses several small streams that cascade steeply down to join Beech Creek. The largest such stream appears to be known as Bear Creek, which the trail crosses at 1.8 miles. Bear Creek actually forms a rain-dependent 20-foot waterfall that spills out from the left right onto the trail.
In the winter, you can see a much taller waterfall on Bear Creek sliding down a tall cliff well above the trail. Getting to the tall waterfall looked like it would involve a difficult off-trail scramble, and thus, it would be worth it only during a monsoon.
You’ll cross a couple of landslide scars from events that occurred during the flooding in 2004, from the remnants of hurricanes Frances and Ivan. The trail has been re-constructed in those areas.You’ll pass an old rock wall on the left, and the trail enters a left hand switchback just beyond.
The trail makes another hairpin to the right, and then another back to the left. At this second left-hand switchback, there may be a sign pointing to High Falls.
Take the trail leading straight off the end of the switchback toward the creek. This follows an old road bed for a short distance and then the trail descends steeply to the creek. Follow the path/creek upstream a few hundred more feet to reach the base of the High Falls of Beech Creek.
The creek can have a decent flow during wet weather, but it spreads out wide across this bumpy rock outcrop, forming lots of little falls over the mini ledges and giving it lots of character. It kills me to add this North Carolina feature, but what a side hike.
This Tallulah Basin is a fantastic spot. Internet image to right.
Heavily wooded today, the upper Tallulah River Basin was stripped nearly bare by logging in the 1930s before the establishment of the Chattahoochee National Forest. Well this forest is nearly 100 years old now, and it is really something. Our hidden jewel of Georgia (and a little NC).
Directions to Upper Tallulah River Basin: From the center of Clayton, proceed west on US 76 7.5 miles; turn right (north) on a paved road and in 2.2 miles pass a cemetery in the community of Persimmon. Continue 1.8 miles and turn left at the first paved road. Follow this road (FS 70), which becomes gravel. Go 1 mile past parking area for canoe put-in (to float down to Lake Burton). The Forest Service's Tallulah River Campground is only .3 mile farther. The Coleman River Scenic Area and bridge are .1 mile past the campground. The drive up the Rock Mountain Gorge begins .2 mile past the Coleman River bridge and continues for about 1.9 miles. The gorge ends just south of a shallow ford across the Tallulah which leads to the four-wheel-drive road to Charlie's Creek. Continuing up the main road, it is .3 mile to the second Forest Service campground at Tate Branch. From Tate Branch it is .8 mile to the third official campground at Sandy Bottoms. From there it is .5 mile to Mill Creek (and its trail) and another 1 mile to Denton Creek then another .5 mile to the Beech Creek Bridge. Shortly north of this bridge is the North Carolina state line. From there it is about .4 mile to the parking area and trailhead for the Beach Creek gorge trail. Watch for a flat, cleared area on your left. The road ends about .2 mile farther and is the other end of the Beech Creek/Chimney Rock Loop Trail. Holden Cove Branch and its trail are several hundred yards back down the road from the dead end.
Our GNW gal for today is a rocky gorge honey bunny. Added two more for voting purposes.
We travel back to the Georgia coast and beyond, since we are skirting borders, for tomorrows Georgia Natural Wonder #26.
Going from mountains to sea all week. From the Sherpa Guide……..If one had to select a national park site in Georgia, this land of gorges, waterfalls, and scenic splendor would be it.
Hunters of bear and hog have used the area for years. Only now are horseback riders and hikers discovering this watershed and its myriad trails, many of them connecting with the Appalachian Trail. There was no easy way for the early settlers to reach the remote valley called Tate City, a pastoral setting rimmed by a great northward flex of the Blue Ridge.
Tate City was once a busy corundum mining community and later a logging town with stores and churches. Now only two churches and a handful of homes remain. Most of the original mountain people who lived by subsistence agriculture are gone. The bears and perhaps even the cougar have returned.
This drive up the Tallulah's upper gorge is spectacular.
It begins at the bridge over the Coleman River. At this bridge is the trailhead for an exciting, short (less than a mile) trail up the gorge of the Coleman River through the Coleman River Scenic Area. Now almost all of today’s post is from my photo collection.
Picked up son from Athens Y Camp years ago and explored this area of Georgia before coming back home.
The Coleman River Scenic Area is described on a sign just north of the bridge. This picturesque 330 acres encompassing the lower Coleman River was dedicated in 1960 to "Ranger Nick" Nicholson following his 40 years of public service. A 1-mile-long trail passes up the gorge with its pools, cascades, and shoals.
Some large examples of evergreen trees, especially hemlock, can be seen. Fraser magnolia is common and Stewartia occurs. Carolina rhododendron is unusually abundant. Between the Tallulah Campground and the Scenic Area trailhead is a mini-gorge containing the "strainer hole" which, prior to dynamiting, had a hydraulic, or "keeper," at its input which drowned several people.
Coleman River, worth a side hike. Otis, the original waterfall dog.
Now we are back to the vehicle and we continue up the major access point for the Tallulah River basin, FS 70. It follows beside the Tallulah through the 3-mile-long Rock Mountain Gorge, on the old railroad bed, which was blasted out of solid rock by the lumber company logging the valley in virgin timber days.
This lovely road crosses the Tallulah four times. The picturesque gorge has been the site of television commercials and postcard vistas.
One can picnic on the rocks or fish the pools stocked weekly with eating-size rainbow trout. In the gorge grow a number of the beautiful and rare flowering tree, the mountain camellia, or Stewartia, which blooms in June and July.
The best place to see the tree is in a stand at a wide place in the road at the extreme southern end of the Tate Branch Campground. At Line Branch Creek, one can look back, high up at the Flat Branch Falls.
As far as I got. No trail, scramble up embankment all I saw.
Soulful! This waterfall lies obscured from the masses. The entrance to the Flat Branch Falls Trail is on the south side of Bridge 4 on Tallulah River Road. To clarify, this bridge crosses the Tallulah River from southeast to northwest, or from right to left if coming from Persimmon Road. The trail begins by heading along the Tallulah River in the upstream direction from the bridge. For about 50 feet, the trail steeply scrambles up a nearly vertical slope. Other than the blowdowns, this exceedingly steep stretch is the toughest part of the hike. Even though handholds along the scramble are not plentiful, there are just enough to allow a safe passage.
Image from site that called it Soulful. I think my photos capture Fall better, can't find any other images, HOTD exclusive.
Flat Branch Falls is a very tall waterfall. In fact, the full waterfall is more than 200 feet high. I don't think that all of it is visible from the base, but at least the lower 120 feet are visible. Being a long and steep slide on a rather small stream, Flat Branch Falls is best to visit after the heavy rains of winter or spring, when the falls turns into a powerful torrent of whitewater. Even during lower flow, however, Flat Branch Falls is still very nice and scenic due to its height. The lowermost part of the slide can be photogenic under the right conditions, but cloudy skies are a necessity for quality photographs at this waterfall.
Another photo from as far as I got.
Just below the Tate Branch Campground, Charlie's Creek Road fords the river. When this road emerges on a flat near the AT, a north-turning fork leads one to the main Charlie's Creek. Across the creek and up the road a few hundred yards, there is a trail up to an amethyst mine that has produced some of the finest gem amethysts in the United States. The upper Tallulah River Basin is as scenic as it is rugged. The highest elevations are found in North Carolina on Standing Indian Mountain, elevation 5,499 feet, where the Tallulah River headwaters are located. Our next feature of this natural Wonder is Denton Creek Falls off to the right. A sheer drop easily reached about .25 mile upstream from the first ford (where the road is blocked).
Follow FS70 to the Denton Branch Rd. on the right. Drive up the right side of Denton Branch .3 miles to a primitive camping area and park here.
The trail is a fairly easy walk and well worth it.
Waterfall photography is an art I’ll never fully capture. This photo from Net blows away anything I could take.
To reach the falls cross Denton creek and follow the old roadbed upstream. At 2/10ths of a mile the road forks. Take the right fork as it turns into a path. Follow for about 800' to the base of the falls.
Otis was a good waterfall dog.
Left me here to sing his song.
This unknown fall is a 0.2 mile moderately trafficked out and back trail located near Tate City, campground. I can’t find it listed anywhere, no name, no directions. My old Mark Morrison waterfall book listed it. It was off to left while you were still in Georgia near some primitive camping spots.
It cascades over a series of rocks making this a nice mystery spot to visit. I mean your camping, might as well see every fall in the area.
The Tallulah River Road follows an old railroad bed before ending in the Southern Nantahala Wilderness and provides the only access to Tate City. Go through the small rural community of Tate “City”. Tate City is an unincorporated community in Towns County, Georgia, United States. It was founded as a mining and logging community. The community was named after one Mr. Tate, a businessperson in the local lumber industry. Tate City sits in a scenic valley along the upper Tallulah River, just south of the Georgia-North Carolina border. The community is flanked by various peaks of the Blue Ridge and Nantahala Mountains, including 4568-foot Hightower Bald, 4640-ft. Dicks Knob, and 5499-ft. Standing Indian Mountain. As of the 2010 United States Census, there were 16 people residing in the CDP. The racial makeup of the CDP was 100.0% White.
FS 70 dead ends in North Carolina. Now I want to keep this an all Georgia Natural Wonder, but I can’t let you come all the way up this basin without seeing the grand finale, High Falls (Beech Creek). Past Tate City, past the mystery falls, the Beech Creek trailhead parking is on the left – park here. The hike to the falls is difficult and about 5 miles (round-trip) in length. The Beech Creek trail starts across and back down the road a bit; start the hike there. The trail climbs steeply up the ridge through a series of switchbacks. Follow the switchbacks rather than the steep, eroded shortcut trail going straight up the mountain. The trail will crest the ridge and start descending again – steeply at one point – to reach Beech Creek.
Cross Beech Creek a few times. It may be possible to rock-hop here, or you may have to get your feet wet in higher water, and it will be impassable in a flood. Here you’re in a hemlock forest. Pick up the trail leading upstream and follow the creek. The trail merges with an old roadbed shortly; bear left. You’ll cross a few smaller tributary streams that might be dry, and then cross the creek in Bull Cove which should have water in all weather.
Entering the Cove of Bull. Hendrix was my dog on this hike.
This crossing is much larger and has a deep pool above the rock-hop area at the edge of the old road bed. On the other side of the crossing is an trail heading upstream along the creek. You can follow this a few hundred yards for a side trip to the falls in Bull Cove if you wish. Bull Cove Falls is in a beautiful little cove with a high rock wall on the left side.
Sheer cliffs of Bull Cove.
Keep hiking up the cove. Pete sunning heat of sun and rock reflecting light. March hike.
It ends right at the base of the waterfall. It's a 2 tiered falls about 40' high.
Continue along the old road bed, passing a rusty old gate. The road descends to the creek and crosses it a second time. After this, the trail begins climbing steeply and relentlessly with the scenic creek on the right.
During very wet weather, a few side streams may form small waterfalls on the left.
Down to the right, there are countless cascades and small waterfalls on Beech Creek.
Throughout the ascent, the trail crosses several small streams that cascade steeply down to join Beech Creek. The largest such stream appears to be known as Bear Creek, which the trail crosses at 1.8 miles. Bear Creek actually forms a rain-dependent 20-foot waterfall that spills out from the left right onto the trail.
In the winter, you can see a much taller waterfall on Bear Creek sliding down a tall cliff well above the trail. Getting to the tall waterfall looked like it would involve a difficult off-trail scramble, and thus, it would be worth it only during a monsoon.
You’ll cross a couple of landslide scars from events that occurred during the flooding in 2004, from the remnants of hurricanes Frances and Ivan. The trail has been re-constructed in those areas.You’ll pass an old rock wall on the left, and the trail enters a left hand switchback just beyond.
The trail makes another hairpin to the right, and then another back to the left. At this second left-hand switchback, there may be a sign pointing to High Falls.
Take the trail leading straight off the end of the switchback toward the creek. This follows an old road bed for a short distance and then the trail descends steeply to the creek. Follow the path/creek upstream a few hundred more feet to reach the base of the High Falls of Beech Creek.
The creek can have a decent flow during wet weather, but it spreads out wide across this bumpy rock outcrop, forming lots of little falls over the mini ledges and giving it lots of character. It kills me to add this North Carolina feature, but what a side hike.
This Tallulah Basin is a fantastic spot. Internet image to right.
Heavily wooded today, the upper Tallulah River Basin was stripped nearly bare by logging in the 1930s before the establishment of the Chattahoochee National Forest. Well this forest is nearly 100 years old now, and it is really something. Our hidden jewel of Georgia (and a little NC).
Directions to Upper Tallulah River Basin: From the center of Clayton, proceed west on US 76 7.5 miles; turn right (north) on a paved road and in 2.2 miles pass a cemetery in the community of Persimmon. Continue 1.8 miles and turn left at the first paved road. Follow this road (FS 70), which becomes gravel. Go 1 mile past parking area for canoe put-in (to float down to Lake Burton). The Forest Service's Tallulah River Campground is only .3 mile farther. The Coleman River Scenic Area and bridge are .1 mile past the campground. The drive up the Rock Mountain Gorge begins .2 mile past the Coleman River bridge and continues for about 1.9 miles. The gorge ends just south of a shallow ford across the Tallulah which leads to the four-wheel-drive road to Charlie's Creek. Continuing up the main road, it is .3 mile to the second Forest Service campground at Tate Branch. From Tate Branch it is .8 mile to the third official campground at Sandy Bottoms. From there it is .5 mile to Mill Creek (and its trail) and another 1 mile to Denton Creek then another .5 mile to the Beech Creek Bridge. Shortly north of this bridge is the North Carolina state line. From there it is about .4 mile to the parking area and trailhead for the Beach Creek gorge trail. Watch for a flat, cleared area on your left. The road ends about .2 mile farther and is the other end of the Beech Creek/Chimney Rock Loop Trail. Holden Cove Branch and its trail are several hundred yards back down the road from the dead end.
Our GNW gal for today is a rocky gorge honey bunny. Added two more for voting purposes.
We travel back to the Georgia coast and beyond, since we are skirting borders, for tomorrows Georgia Natural Wonder #26.
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